August 23, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Regular. It looked good from the car. The kooks were out en masse. Missed five good set waves because I got snaked. Didn't catch anything for about 45 minutes, which speaks more to my lack of skill. Super frustrating. Begrudgingly moved to the inside. Finally score my first, and it's sweet; but I had to drop in on one of the regulars, which was justified as she (yes, she) dropped in behind me after I was up and riding. Stayed in the middle and played the inside, too, then got fed up and called it. Had an agonizing time getting my last (probably as much as the first).
Vid: Balls and cars.
Posted at 11:34 PM
August 22, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Three local longboard pros dominating Regular. Funny because just a few years back I would've challenged because it's my spot AND they're longboarders. That was the punk in me. But now I couldn't care less. Those days are done (I think). Instead just stayed to myself on the inside, end-corner, hiding and skulking, like I usually do, beneath the radar, incognito. Even made time for a jaunt to M's then finished back at Regular. Overall, it sucked.
Posted at 10:59 PM
August 21, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Quick one at Regular. Scored some set waves immediately then it died out. Ended on the far inside. Lots of water from the high tide.
Posted at 11:55 PM
August 20, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Looked fun from the cars. Started at Regular with a friend. Fairly crowded given the infrequency of sets, got impatient and uneasy (remember: I've developed extreme crowd anxiety/phobia), moved to M's. Idiot longboarder wearing a visor, shades, and gloves followed. Just my kind of buddy. What a loser. He tried to make conversation with me. I reluctantly offer up some idle chatter while I snag occasional insiders and he flounders. He's clueless.
As we both are driven to the painful conclusion that it sucks, he drifts backs to Regular, and I quickly do the same, settling on the inside, end-corner. Score several good ones that salvage the session and leave me completely satisfied.
Note: Based on many years of surfing, I can say that it's an axiom someone using webbed gloves with a shortboard or longboard is a skill-less dolt. I'm undecided about bodyboarders.
Consider that such an appliance actually reduces propulsion efficiency. Isn't there research to confirm this? Isn't it more effective to use just your hands? Also, don't gloves put unnecessary stress on the elbow?
Posted at 11:29 PM
August 19, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
Late afternoon at M's alone. Shifty/tricky and inconsistent but got scored some good ones.
CNN vid: "Surfing makes me feel like I'm flying."
Posted at 7:03 PM
August 18, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
A-framer with a friend. We've been waiting for the A to offer up some bowl-y goodness, and it looked like this was the day. Alas, it wasn't as it had appeared, although my friend did have fun on the lefts initially. The rights were chunky and challenging and most were all-shoulder. Saw two sharks.
Posted at 6:44 PM
August 17, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
With a friend. He opts for Regular, and I do M's. Some sets. I missed a few and caught a few.
Decide to finish at Regular. Light wind but high tide and super slope-y. Wow, it's bad. My friend is over at an adjacent break. I get skunked. Now it's pretty much flat, and I barely snag anything. One of the worst days in a while.
CNN vid: Australian surfer killed by shark.
Posted at 6:50 PM
August 16, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
BM's, M's, then Regular. Super fun at Regular on the inside, end-corner. Mushy, doubly, rippable bowl-ages.
Posted at 11:24 PM
August 15, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Regular. Crowded. I stand on the beach and watch for 15 minutes as about 20 people paddle out. Argh.
I head out and try my best on the very slope-y and mushy drivel. Cannot catch anything. Finally I score one, as the crowd increases.
A nice set over at M's catches my attention. I paddle over. At first, I'm just sitting. But then some fun ones come in, and I start scoring. Get a handful that salvage the session and leave me completely satisfied.
Posted at 11:21 PM
August 14, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
BM's is crowded. Why??? Friend and I hit it anyway. Some fun rights/lefts but very soft and mushy.
Posted at 11:02 PM
August 13, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Biggest it's been in a week. With a friend at M's. Nothing coming in, so he goes to Regular and I move to BM's. It's not bad (actually, kinda lined-up), but the rising tide worsens the form considerably. Then two irritating kooks invade. I try to be patient but they wear down my nerves. They win, and I go back to M's where it's better than earlier but still most waves are simply passing over the reef without breaking. Head over to Regular to finish.
Posted at 11:12 PM
August 12, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
With a friend. We split: he heads to Regular, I start for M's but detour to BM's when I see some decent wave action. It was okay with lined-up rights and much better than expected, but still not that good (mushy, sloppy). Then I see my friend at M's catching some insiders, so I decide to go over. Friend leaves to return to Regular, I persist but get nada, zilch. I then go to Regular and score three successive waves on the end-corner that are the best rides I've had in more than a week. Leaving me super stoked and satisfied. Nice finish to a mediocre start.
Posted at 7:49 PM
August 11, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Regular. Small, windy, and sloppy. From the cars, we watched as one of the regulars (a former pro) and his friend on a longboard killed the inside, end-corner bowl. They were having a blast. We joined and managed to snag some in the initial half hour, but then it quickly deteriorated and got abysmal. Very disappointing.
Posted at 8:13 PM
August 10, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Inside end-corner at Regular. Some doable dribblers. For the most part quite pathetic.
Give me some f-ing McNuggets or I will hurt you. I'm not kidding.
Posted at 6:19 PM
August 9, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Surprisingly decent wind swell ('bout time). Much better and much more wave action. Initially non-stop doubles at the end-corner bowl. Then slower.
Please, don't bring your gun to the wedding.
More uplifting: "Catch a wave in Wyoming."
Posted at 11:47 PM
August 8, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Some okay ones initially at Regular at the inside, end-corner then total crap. Gutless, sloppy dribblers. Windy.
Posted at 11:23 PM
August 7, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Yesterday I wanted to do the A-framer, and it was still stuck in my mind, so I gave it shot. At first, it was promising with rights/lefts over the somewhat shallow reef. But quickly it deteriorated as the wind got stronger and the form sloppier. Less consistent waves added to the misery. Later by the car, Regular on the inside looked real fun, and it wasn't crowded (natch). Go figure.
Posted at 11:16 PM
