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April 30, 2005 (Saturday)
Death At Diamond Head?
I can't find anything on the guy who apparently drowned yesterday while surfing at DH Cliffs. The online editions of the local papers don't have a story on it. And I didn't watch the evening TV news because I was working all night.
I've heard from a few people about it. My friend said he saw the rescue unfolding and that it took a very-long time for the ambulance/EMTs to arrive. In his opinion, the long response time was unacceptable.
Another friend said Cliffs was going off. It was barreling. At least four broken boards counted.
From what I've gathered from several first-hand accounts, Town has been "all-time" and epic at many, many spots during the last two days. All sources agree that the waves have been awesome. A few have said in different ways they'd "never seen it like that before."
Posted at 7:25 PM
Post-session
Pretty much going off when I first got there. Now kinda mushy (light westerlies). Heard this morning was epic (local pro: "I've never seen it break like that before.").
Posted at 4:17 PM
April 29, 2005 (Friday)
Post-session
I expected better. About 1-2 with 3s. Smooth conditions, clean form. Crowded (of course). Heard certain spots were epic yesterday.
Posted at 10:22 AM
Nada
No session yesterday--had to work from the morning. Heard it was pretty good.
Posted at 7:55 AM
April 27, 2005 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Light westerlies. Pretty good form. Slow and weak. Small. I had fun.
Posted at 10:54 AM
April 26, 2005 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Point-age. Alone-age. Junk-age.
Heard some swells are on the way for next week. I'm still not fully recovered from my illness. It's been nine days.
Posted at 3:45 PM
April 25, 2005 (Monday)
Post-session
Super junk.
Posted at 10:26 AM
April 24, 2005 (Sunday)
Post-session
I had fun. 1-2 with 3s. Kinda sloppy. Windy and cold.
Posted at 1:35 PM
April 23, 2005 (Saturday)
Post-session
Kinda fun. Good at first, then longish lulls, then better again. I was executing pretty well, which made me happy. Did some gratifying moves.
Feeling better but still sick. My voice was shot last night and this morning. Now it's coming back. But this morning . . . just the sound of air and the occasional frog-like utterance. Sore throat and nasal congestion are almost gone. Just thought you'd like to know.
Posted at 4:03 PM
April 22, 2005 (Friday)
Post-session
Pretty much like the previous days. Still some okay size.
Posted at 1:28 PM
April 21, 2005 (Thursday)
Post-session
I’d say it's going off. Bigger than yesterday. Pretty much empty.
Posted at 12:28 PM
April 20, 2005 (Wednesday)
Post-session
About 1-2 with 3s. Windy. Sloppy.
Posted at 1:23 PM
April 19, 2005 (Tuesday)
Etiology
Can't believe I went surfing today. A few days ago, I woke in the morning with a sore throat. Then yesterday at work I was really, really ill. Had an intensely sore throat and headache and was light-headed and weak. Don't know how I made it through the shift. As I walked to my car, I felt like collapsing. Then afterward last night until early this morning, I was feeling supremely sick; but when I finally got up, I was feeling much better.
After breakfast I took a nap and woke at noonish. It was such a beautiful day, and it was hot. Had to get in the water. I'm glad I did. Still got the sore throat, although it's not as bad.
It's odd that I've been getting sick so often of late. Usually, I get something minor about once a year. It's rare that I get a full-blown flu. Wonder what's wrong? Immunity low? Working myself too hard? Need more rest? Something in my environment?
Posted at 4:06 PM
Post-session
There are waves, and it's amazingly uncrowded. Most spots that I saw were empty or nearly so.
Posted at 3:56 PM
April 18, 2005 (Monday)
Post-session
I'm sick--again. Felt awful in the water. Couldn't stay out long because I had the chills. Got a sore throat; feel weak and light-headed.
It's windy and sloppy. But there's one spot that is going off. Very consistent, uncrowded, long walls, rippable. Can’t tell you where. I can say one of the regulars (Mr. B) was out killing it as I watched from the car.
Posted at 12:16 PM
April 17, 2005 (Sunday)
Post-session
Slightly better form than yesterday; otherwise, kinda junk.
Posted at 1:13 PM
April 16, 2005 (Saturday)
Post-session
Uncrowded. Windy and sloppy.
Posted at 1:47 PM
Yikes
"Surfer fends off shark attack."
Posted at 10:05 AM
April 15, 2005 (Friday)
Post-session
Windy. Uncrowded. Severe morning sickness at first, now much better.
Posted at 1:14 PM
April 14, 2005 (Thursday)
Post-session
Bigger. Still sloppy--morning sickness?
Posted at 12:25 PM
April 13, 2005 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Crappy. Windy and choppy. Seems to have some push, though.
Posted at 12:49 PM
April 12, 2005 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Much smaller. Very sloppy.
Posted at 1:37 PM
April 11, 2005 (Monday)
Post-session
Head-high, some bigger. Windy and very inconsistent.
Posted at 2:49 PM
Relapse
Didn't surf yesterday because I started to feel sick again. Instead, stayed home and napped before going to work. Heard it wasn't as big as I was expecting it would've been. One of my friends surfed Kewalo's, and she said it was barreling but only about 1-2 feet.
Saturday's event took a lot out of me. And then rushing to work right after only made things harder. I'm feeling better now, though.
Posted at 12:20 PM
April 10, 2005 (Sunday)
Resultations
Open: first round, 3rd place, advance; semis, 5th place, eliminated. Senior: first round, 1st place, advance; finals, 4th place.
Posted at 9:38 AM
April 9, 2005 (Saturday)
Sick But Ready
It's on at DH. It's so nice that the event will be in my neighborhood, especially since I have to go to work right after. I'll even be able to come home between divisions.
I'm still feeling less than 100%. I've got some kind of gastrointestinal malady. My stomach is queasy, and I've got the runs. But I can surf--not well, but I can.
Hopefully, it came up a little from yesterday. Any bit would help.
Posted at 7:51 AM
April 8, 2005 (Friday)
Post-session
Did it--forced myself to go out. Don't laugh, but it seemed to be showing signs. It's supposed to get bigger Sunday/Monday. Someone told me today we're supposed to have waves all next week.
Posted at 4:46 PM
I Know Why
Ooohhh, now I get it. MovableType resides on my hosting provider's machine, which is located in a time zone that does observe Daylight Saving Time. Hence, the time stamp of +1 in relation to HST.
Oh, wait--is that right? Gosh, I'll figure it out later. For now, I'll just manually change the stamp.
Posted at 12:48 PM
What, Time?
Just noticed that the time stamp for my posts are off by +1 hour. Think it has to do with some bug related to the recent change to Daylight Saving Time. Guess MovableType doesn't correctly allow for HST (Hawaii doesn't observe DST).
Posted at 12:38 PM
Not Well
I'm sick. After surfing on Wednesday, I came in feeling ill, which was extremely strange because I felt fine when I paddled out. Kinda weak with body ache, hot and cold flashes, upset stomach, lightheaded.
Yesterday, I left work sick before the shift even started (my boss filled in for me). All I've been doing since is sleeping. Nonetheless, I might force myself to go out this afternoon.
The next event scheduled for this weekend is on and will run at either Diamond Head Cliffs or at Nanakuli Tracks (so sayeth the hotline). But I still feel pretty crappy right now.
Posted at 12:35 PM
April 6, 2005 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Great day for sunbathing (sunny, breezy) but not for surfing.
Posted at 2:14 PM
April 5, 2005 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Don't do it. I did it so you don't have to. Learn from my mistake.
Posted at 1:38 PM
Here We Go Again
Looks like it'll be more of the same today: knee-high, wind-blown slop. I don't care. I'll surf anything. You all should know that by now.
Posted at 11:18 AM
April 4, 2005 (Monday)
Post-session
Less wave action and worse than yesterday.
Posted at 2:22 PM
April 3, 2005 (Sunday)
Post-session
Wind-driven slop.
Posted at 1:41 PM
April 2, 2005 (Saturday)
Post-session
Pure wind-swellage.
Posted at 2:41 PM
April 1, 2005 (Friday)
Post-session
Slightly bigger. Windy.
Posted at 1:38 PM