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September 14, 2005 (Wednesday)
First Observation
I had to go check it because of all that I was hearing and reading. Needed to get a look myself.
Would say it's a solid 4-6, I don't think 7 or 8 yet. But it's really difficult to say given I wasn't actually in the water. It's windy and chunky and disorganized. Quite consistent sets. S-SW angle.
It's funny what happens when there's some size. First, barely any cars are parked. Typically when there's a swell, cars would be lined up everywhere. Second, usually at this time in the morning the core old timers are out. However, there were less than a dozen people surfing, spread out among three breaks. (I'm not going to tell you where because it's my usual spot.)
Saw several of the regulars and others as they came to watch. Saw a friend, and we talked. We agreed it looked like we didn't need the big boards just yet. Saw another friend down the road as he was walking from the beach. He surfed one of the premier big-wave places and said it wasn't that good.
So right now I'm saying there is decent size, but the form and conditions are subpar. Probably all locations are surf-able (i.e., not closing).
Posted at 9:12 AM