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June 30, 2006 (Friday)

Post-session

Pretty much like yesterday: small and blown.

Posted at 10:56 AM

June 29, 2006 (Thursday)

Post-session

Windy and small.

Posted at 2:56 PM

June 28, 2006 (Wednesday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger and windy. Seems like weak southern energy and wind-swell mix.

Posted at 1:13 PM

Next?

"Small south swell may arrive Friday."

Posted at 8:51 AM

June 27, 2006 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Late morning: Small wind-slop.

Afternoon: Same size; too much water, weak.

Posted at 7:19 PM

June 26, 2006 (Monday)

Post-session

Late morning: Small and fun. Initially, light E-SE winds; then moderate S, then E.

Afternoon: Bigger (new swell?). Lots of water. Light to moderate trades.

Posted at 5:53 PM

June 25, 2006 (Sunday)

Post-session

Slightly smaller. Now light SE winds and mushy but fun.

Posted at 1:14 PM

June 24, 2006 (Saturday)

Post-session

Pretty much the same but packed with kooks. Where do they come from?

Posted at 6:16 PM

June 23, 2006 (Friday)

Post-session

Small and weak. Moderate trades.

Posted at 12:53 PM

June 22, 2006 (Thursday)

Post-session

Some bigger sets--there's something new showing--but windy and sloppy. High tide making it choppy, soft/weak.

Posted at 2:46 PM

June 21, 2006 (Wednesday)

Post-session

Might be bigger, otherwise just like yesterday.

Posted at 1:15 PM

June 20, 2006 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Windy and sloppy. Weak. Empty.

Posted at 1:08 PM

June 18, 2006 (Sunday)

Post-session

Smaller, windy.

Posted at 1:23 PM

June 17, 2006 (Saturday)

Post-session

Inconsistent 2-3 with 4s. Windy. Not crowded.

Posted at 5:07 PM

To Wit

Just found this: "High surf advisory cancelled."

Posted at 11:07 AM

Reportage

My friend just called. At the biggest right now, it's about 3 feet.

Posted at 11:02 AM

June 16, 2006 (Friday)

Post-session

Smaller and less wind. Fun.

Posted at 1:37 PM

June 15, 2006 (Thursday)

Post-session

Slightly smaller but still some sets. Windy and sloppy. Empty.

Posted at 12:32 PM

June 14, 2006 (Wednesday)

Post-session

About 2-3 with 4s and perhaps 5s. Windy and sloppy.

Posted at 1:25 PM

June 13, 2006 (Tuesday)

Post-session

About 1-2 with occasional bigger and windy. Empty.

Posted at 1:10 PM

June 12, 2006 (Monday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger. Moderate trades. Empty--where are all the kooks?

Posted at 4:48 PM

June 11, 2006 (Sunday)

The Usual

I blew it: 5th place. Had a chance on my last wave, and fell off after my first turn. What else is new?

Posted at 1:01 PM

Post-session

About 1-2 with moderate trades.

Posted at 11:18 AM

Itinerary

This is the plan. My Senior finals heat is at 12:45. I have to be at work by 1:30. If I went directly from Magic Island afterward, I could easily make it on time. Instead, I'll have to be about half an hour late because I'm going back home first to drop off my board and change clothes.

Gonna surf the Left-hander this morning for about an hour to warm up and get loose. That'll give me enough time to get to Ala Moana to find parking. Yesterday I freaked out when I got there because the Koko Head-side entrance was blocked off to vehicle access (but not egress) due to a walk-run race. Just when I was gonna park at the shopping center, I found that they were allowing cars to enter from the Ewa-side. Today, there's supposed to be a parade and perhaps a 10K running race.

I'm going to practice this morning not because this event is so important (and it kinda is for me) but because I don't want to make a fool of myself (something I'm good at doing). People won’t be watching for me in particular, of course, but there are going to be many spectators, and I don't want to be remembered as the one who blew the wave of the day.

There are divergent forecast views. All of them, however, are saying it's supposed to get bigger some time between today and tomorrow. So, hopefully, it'll start building this morning, if it hasn’t started doing so already.

P.S. The water wasn't dirty; that is, not more than it typically used to be.

Posted at 8:26 AM

June 10, 2006 (Saturday)

Post-session

Tide was ruining it. Some over-headers once in a while. Can't tell if it's building or just remnants. Kook City to the max.

Posted at 3:21 PM

Relieved

Placed 2nd in my first-round heat and advanced to the finals tomorrow. I was super nervous before paddling out. As I watched from the beach, it didn't look as big as I had expected. Would call it 1-2 with rare 3s. But the tide was low, and the sections were running fast. Those in the know said it'll start firing when the tide starts rising. There was one "bomber" set right before the end of the heat. I caught one of those, but like all the other bigger waves that were coming through this morning, it pinched shut at the section by the channel.

I'm so-o stoked I made it. Wonder if it'll be bigger tomorrow? Gonna surf later this afternoon to practice.

Posted at 10:54 AM

Anxious

Uneasy anticipation. Gonna surf Bowls this morning. According to HWS, it was good yesterday (3-4 ft. plus) and today looks the same.

I'm really nervous. This isn't my territory at all, and if it's clean and barreling...it's all you, baby. In other words, when the waves are high quality, and the venue allows superb spectator viewing, you're under a lot of scrutiny, and there's no faking it. The pressure is on.

Last year, I arrived late. I barely had time to get my jersey and paddle out. In 15 minutes I was eliminated--done, finished--and sent home. I need to do better this time.

Posted at 7:52 AM

June 9, 2006 (Friday)

Post-session

Inconsistent 1-2 with 3s. Beautiful day. Calm-light trades.

Posted at 1:08 PM

June 8, 2006 (Thursday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger. Tide ruining it right now.

Posted at 12:29 PM

June 7, 2006 (Wednesday)

Post-session

I lied. Class finished at 11:00, and I was in the water by 11:30.

It's slightly bigger and showing signs. But it's gutless and inconsistent. Moderate trades.

Posted at 1:06 PM

Woe Unto Me

Up early this a.m. Won't be able to surf today. Instead, gonna have a fun day at work. First, CPR class from 7:30-14:30. Then regular shift until about 21:00.

It sucks to be me :-(. Oh well, life could be worse.

Posted at 6:29 AM

June 6, 2006 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Knee- to waist-high.

Posted at 12:38 PM

June 5, 2006 (Monday)

Post-session

Breezy summer (read: sunny/hot) day. Small. Not crowded.

Posted at 5:13 PM

June 4, 2006 (Sunday)

Post-session

About 1-2, moderate trades, crowded.

Posted at 1:15 PM

June 3, 2006 (Saturday)

Post-session

Smaller and inconsistent. Boring. Crowded.

Heard yesterday evening got up to six feet. True? I was out on the ocean and cruising from Sand Island to Diamond Head, and every spot looked like it was going off.

Posted at 4:43 PM

June 2, 2006 (Friday)

Post-session

Slightly bigger. Fun. Not too crowded (but: 40 people at Rice Bowls this morning).

Posted at 1:28 PM

June 1, 2006 (Thursday)

Post-session

About 1-3. Some spots probably getting 4s. Light to moderate E-SE winds.

Posted at 12:25 PM