August 1, 2006 (Tuesday)
Bigger. I tried to paddle out to my regular spot, but it was shutting down. Went half way and turned around and belly-boarded in. Would call it 2-4 with 5s.
Walked down the beach to the Right-hander. It looked funky but do-able. I'm glad I hit it because I scored. I wasn't the only one, though. There were four other guys. The moderate onshore winds backed off, and the conditions and form got quite nice for about an hour and a half.
I had some good rides, although I was stumbling and clumsy at times. Did do some gratifying bashes and snaps off the top. Had one real memorable off-the-lip where my tail slid out in a 180. I lost my balance and fell off at the bottom. But that was an awesome one.
Then the wind kicked up again, and it got sloppy, and it got crowded. I was completely satisfied. Definitely one of those you-shoulda-been-here-earlier situations.
Posted at 7:58 PM