September 30, 2006 (Saturday)
Even smaller still. Windy.
Posted at 4:22 PM
September 29, 2006 (Friday)
Small. Light to moderate trades. Too crowded for such bogus-ness.
I'm on a mini-vacation right now. Off on Thu/Fri/Sat, Mon/Tue. Hooray!
Posted at 5:58 PM
September 28, 2006 (Thursday)
Smaller. Weak and sloppy. Boring. Crowded.
Posted at 5:53 PM
September 27, 2006 (Wednesday)
Weak but fun. Not crowded. Moderate trades.
Posted at 1:07 PM
September 26, 2006 (Tuesday)
I was surprised. It was good at first--real good. Still some over-head sets. Moderate trades. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:24 PM
September 25, 2006 (Monday)
Smaller but still something with very inconsistent over-head sets.
Posted at 1:08 PM
September 24, 2006 (Sunday)
Awesome this morning. Now sloppier and inconsistent.
Posted at 1:25 PM
September 23, 2006 (Saturday)
New energy with over-head sets. I'm surprised because Courts wasn't showing it this morning (maybe now?).
Posted at 1:34 PM
Couldn't do it. It's small with the very-occasional head-high. Just didn't have the desire.
Not only that. There was about a three-hour break between the Open and Senior divisions, and I didn't want to wait that long, especially considering that I'm supposed to be at work (I'm usually off on Saturdays) by 1:30 and someone would be filling in for me until I got there. I would be sitting around while I should be working. If the waves were good that would be a different situation altogether.
Posted at 10:07 AM
Contest this morning at Courts. Hope there's waves.
Posted at 8:08 AM
September 22, 2006 (Friday)
Junk at first now getting better. Improved form and less wind. Not crowded. Fun.
Posted at 1:04 PM
September 21, 2006 (Thursday)
Smaller. Still some over-head ones pushing in. Windy and choppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 10:58 AM
September 20, 2006 (Wednesday)
About the same size. Same conditions and form--windy and sloppy.
Two big waves broke right in front of me. On one of them (can't remember if it was the first or second), when I tried to duck, my board was ripped from my hands, and as I was getting twirled and pummeled my board got mixed in with me, and I kicked it with my leg and put two cracks in the rail. My new board.
And don't laugh, but I got held down so long on the second one that I thought I was going to black out. I know this is only Town, so that says more about me than anything else. I was tuckered from the first one, and then the next one just did me in. Kinda scary for me when I think about it because, as I said, this is only Town. After that, I didn't feel like surfing anymore because my board was damaged, and I was tired.
Posted at 1:03 PM
September 19, 2006 (Tuesday)
It's smaller, but the conditions and form are still pretty much the same. The drop in size didn't really help as much as I had thought it might. Nevertheless, I had some fun ones. You had to get the right one, which I did several times. And there were still some bomb sets coming in.
Posted at 3:44 PM
You know, there were some big ones yesterday morning. I was surprised.
When I first glimpsed it from the road as I drove by to find parking, I could see there was no one out, and thick, long lines were stacked up with a pronounced west-y angle. I was excited.
As I walked with my board, a car was leaving, and I looked to see one of the regulars (really, a newcomer, but he's been coming out a lot) in the passenger seat looking at me with a huge grin, his arm thrust out of the window in a shaking thumbs-up, his head nodding up and down in the affirmative. Okay, so I know he surfs the Right-hander. Check.
As I neared the beach, I could see there were only two guys out and spread very far apart at my regular spot. I walked along the sand about a hundred yards to where I was going to enter the water. One of the regulars was walking the other way. He had just come in. Thirty minutes, closed out, strong current, washing through, un-doable. That was his report. That was enough for me. I could fully appreciate what he said. That put what I was seeing into context--gave me a narrative to make sense of the scene. Up to that point, I could only guess what it was actually like. I've been there many times at this place in such conditions. It's not fun when it's like that. Of course, it would be a monumental waste of time.
So I turned around and walked back up the beach to the Right-hander. Maybe six guys--empty. I jumped in. I soon found myself over shallow reef. What? But the tide is pretty high? I looked back at land to get my bearings and realized that I had been carried over the shelf that usually I'd be nowhere near because I'd be paddling in the channel. But apparently there was significant rip right off the beach. Wow. That's very unusual.
When I got to the lineup, I was a bit intimidated because it was big and I felt under-gunned. There were some solid 5-footers, at least, and it was powerful. It was windy, too, and the wind would hold up the peak so that it would quickly build into a vertical cliff that would fall over on itself, setting the trap for the unwary or unskilled or for those with not enough length on their board (I qualify under all three categories). This was the biggest stuff for me in a while.
Eventually, I relaxed and settled in. I tried to catch whatever I could as soon as possible so I could warm up. I needed to get the arthritic knee and the hip with tendonitis moving. As the session wore on, the sets got more inconsistent, and the size dropped. At the end, it was only me and one other guy. It got quite crappy: messed up and choppy. But I did have some good ones. I also got pitched on a few from the takeoff with no chance to stand. Overall, I guess I had fun.
I'm off from work today, so I'm looking forward to a long session. Gonna probably take my time and get to the beach around 11, 12-ish. I'm anticipating smaller, more-doable surf.
Posted at 9:53 AM
September 18, 2006 (Monday)
Bigger. My regular place was out of control, so I walked down the beach to the Right-hander. At first, there were some bombs coming in, and then it started to back off and get sloppier. Some spots must be getting 6-footers. Moderate to strong trades.
Posted at 12:38 PM
September 17, 2006 (Sunday)
Some solid sets with push earlier this morning. Now kinda backing off. Moderate trades. Not too crowded.
My regular spot was shutting down. Morning sickness.
Posted at 9:52 AM
September 16, 2006 (Saturday)
Bigger with inconsistent over-head sets. Slow and weak. Crowded. It's hot and muggy outside, and the water feels great. Light SE winds.
Posted at 1:13 PM
September 15, 2006 (Friday)
Slightly bigger with rare head-high. Weak and choppy. Boring. Moderate and gusty east winds.
Posted at 1:07 PM
September 14, 2006 (Thursday)
Small and dismal, but there's something.
Posted at 12:18 PM
September 13, 2006 (Wednesday)
Smaller. Light to moderate trades.
I had an awful time. But that's just me.
Posted at 1:08 PM
September 12, 2006 (Tuesday)
Still something rolling in. It's smaller but doable. Light variables earlier now moderate E-SE winds.
Posted at 4:04 PM
September 11, 2006 (Monday)
Smaller and windier. Still something.
Posted at 1:21 PM
September 10, 2006 (Sunday)
It was solid this morning. I was surprised. Seemed like a new swell because it was bigger and east-y. It's backing off now, but it's very fun. And it's not crowded.
Posted at 1:25 PM
September 9, 2006 (Saturday)
Surprisingly, only slightly smaller. Still some occasional bombs. Windy. Not crowded.
Posted at 5:11 PM
September 8, 2006 (Friday)
Bigger. Fun. Inconsistent, but some good ones to be had if you choose wisely.
Posted at 1:03 PM
September 7, 2006 (Thursday)
At first, juicy bowl-ages with push; then weaker and inconsistent. Moderate to strong trades.
Posted at 12:25 PM
September 6, 2006 (Wednesday)
Bigger, but very long waits. It was a letdown. Looked good and was in the beginning. Not enough waves. Not too crowded.
Posted at 1:11 PM
September 5, 2006 (Tuesday)
Gosh, the sun was scorching today. I'm sunburned, and I almost NEVER get sunburned. I had some really good rides. Surfing well, board working awesomely.
Picked up my new 6' 0" F6 by WT. Supposed to be a copy of what I've been riding, now, for almost a year. Will probably start using it next week. Someone told me we're supposed to get small, weak pulses all the way till next week.
Posted at 8:05 PM
Definite new energy. Some over-head sets. Wind changes from light to moderate, NE/E/SE. Not too crowded.
Posted at 4:43 PM
September 4, 2006 (Monday)
Slightly bigger. Weak, boring and, of course, holiday crowd.
Posted at 12:48 PM
September 3, 2006 (Sunday)
Slightly bigger. Good conditions. It's more than Kook City--it's Kook Kingdom.
Posted at 12:57 PM
September 2, 2006 (Saturday)
Small. Okay conditions. Moderate trades.
Posted at 3:41 PM
September 1, 2006 (Friday)
I thought it looked better, but actually it sucked. Conditions are better, though.
Posted at 12:55 PM