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November 19, 2006 (Sunday)
Post-session
Surfed a right-hander this morning. You know the one: Breaks from the corner pocket on a north?
When we got there, it looked size-able and crowded. My friend said it was bigger than yesterday. So we were on it. As we walked on the beach, though, it didn't look so good. Definitely shutting down. No one making it through from the outside. Even the middle and inside were sectioning.
So we finally opted for the left-hander across the channel. About seven people there, compared with at least five times that many at the other place. We caught about four waves each, then couldn't resist the call, the beckoning, of that right-hander.
When we paddled over, the crowd thinned somewhat, especially the middle and inside areas. I caught two waves immediately and managed to snag some here and there on occasion. My friend, on the other hand, headed directly to the outside peak.
I had fun, I guess, although I wasn't satisfied. During the last half hour, it got super packed. The number of people doubled. Most waves had two or three people on it. That was it--I was done. And I knew it was getting hectic when during that last 30 minutes I saw and spoke to half a dozen guys I knew from my regular spot in Town. I mean, for me to know that many people in the water on the North Shore from back "home"--well, you get the idea.
Posted at 11:35 PM