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December 10, 2006 (Sunday)
Post-session
New south swell. LH was going off this morning. Consistent 1-2 with 3s.
It was empty due to the road closures for the Marathon. I rode my bike, and when I arrived there were only two guys. All I saw were head-high to over-head sets rolling in. And the two guys weren't even catching anything. I ran down the hill.
When I got out, I found Eric M. and his friend. Then I learned why they weren't hustling: they were tired because they had already caught so many waves. We three were ecstatic. And it was true, after about half an hour, I was tired too.
We were having a blast. Just relaxing and talking and laughing. We'd be sitting and waiting, and a totally lined-up, rippable bowl would come in and we'd look at each other, and maybe someone would go, or maybe not. We were letting a lot of waves pass, ones that normally we'd be fighting over.
Near the end of the session, more people came out, and the conditions and form deteriorated, and the sets became infrequent. We had scored. The three of us went in at the same time. What an awesome time we had.
Posted at 12:50 PM