January 16, 2007 (Tuesday)
Well, whadda y'know? Actually ventured outside of my comfort area. Friend and I surfed Sunset and Chun's.
When we pulled up at Sunset, it wasn't crowded at all, and the conditions/form looked great. It was 3-4 with 5s.
Hadn't been out there in at least 20 years. Yes. 20. Years. I was intimidated. First, I'm the King of Townies. Second, for the other reason. Everyone was on longboards or guns. I think there was one shortboarder. Initially, I thought there was no way I could paddle into the imposing peaks with my 6' 0". Some sets came in, and I half-heartedly stroked and thought, "No way." Finally, I realized I was simply too far out. Once I moved in, I caught two good ones that settled my nerves, and I was fine. Unfortunately, it got very inconsistent and more people came out. And the sun kept disappearing behind the clouds, and it was frickin' cold.
Next stop. When we checked Chun's, there were only five longies out, and they were buoys. It looked small, about 1-2. But since it wasn't crowded, we jumped in.
At the start, it was windy and dribbly. Smallish mush hitting the reef. But soon some sets started coming in that surprised us. It was about 1-3 with 4s. Some of the bigger ones were fun. I even got pounded and pummeled a few times when I took some on the head. I had one really good ride. My board was working awesomely (at Sunset too). But quickly the crowd multiplied, and in no time, it seemed, there were about 20 people. We had our fill and called it a day.
I had fun. It was nice to surf some real waves. And the weather was beautiful: sunny with moderate offshore winds. We stopped off for some early dinner and then headed home. Really a great day off for me.
Posted at 7:49 PM