March 27, 2007 (Tuesday)
Up early this morning. Headed to Japan for a two-week family vacation. It's going to be so fun. See you when I get back.
Posted at 5:13 AM
March 26, 2007 (Monday)
The inside, corner bowl was offering up countless rippable bowl-ages. I had a blast. My board was working great, and I was doing well. Went back for a second session with my son, and there was a noticeable improvement in size and conditions/form.
Posted at 6:54 PM
Not Worth It
I absolutely didn't want to wait at Haleiwa on Saturday for my Senior heat. What was funny was that a few guys were telling me I should stay because the waves were better than in Town.
But waste time doing nothing for three and a half hours so I could surf fifteen minutes? How could that be a smart trade off? They were confusing the quality, which was mediocre at best, with the opportunity to enjoy it, which was minimal.
There was so much more I could be doing at home, like simply napping (which is extremely important to me) or getting organized for my trip. Oh yeah, by the bye, I'm going on vacation for two weeks beginning Tuesday, and I'll be traveling abroad. I'm extremely excited. It's going to be a blast.
But all that time out of the water, with no surf, no surfing? How will I fare, psychologically, emotionally, physically? That'll be my longest period not surfing in almost fifteen years. Isn't that amazing (or sad)? Surfing every day for that many years with the greatest break being about one week (a few times). Wonder if my tendonitis or arthritis will improve?
Anyway, right now I'm very happy. Tonight was my last at work until I return. Tomorrow I'm off, then Tuesday it's absolute personal relaxation in another country for fourteen days.
Posted at 12:29 AM
March 25, 2007 (Sunday)
Really, really--really--bad. Pretty much un-surfable.
Posted at 1:19 PM
March 24, 2007 (Saturday)
Haleiwa. Open: first round, 5th (out of 7), eliminated. I didn't do the Senior because I would've had to wait 3.5 hours, so I went home.
Surfed the regular spot near home. It was about 1-2 and double-y. But pretty much windy and sloppy. Kook City.
Posted at 7:49 PM
March 23, 2007 (Friday)
Seems bigger, but it's really weak.
Posted at 2:50 PM
March 22, 2007 (Thursday)
I'm trying something different. Created a new gallery: Honolulu Coastline. Unlike the surfing stuff, the plan, at least for now, is to update almost daily. (We'll see how long that lasts.)
Posted at 10:45 PM
Seems bigger. Windy.
Posted at 12:32 PM
March 21, 2007 (Wednesday)
Slightly smaller; otherwise, the same.
Posted at 1:44 PM
March 20, 2007 (Tuesday)
When I pulled up, the Right-hander looked nice--perfect angle--and only three guys. But it wasn't as good as it looked. Kinda sloppy/choppy and weak. But still some real fun ones if you chose wisely. Then it got junker with smaller, less frequent sets and lots more people. Windier too. But I was satisfied.
Posted at 7:13 PM
March 19, 2007 (Monday)
Tiny and blown. Worse than it looked, and it looked awful.
Posted at 1:29 PM
March 18, 2007 (Sunday)
The same but with stronger, more north-y wind.
Posted at 1:24 PM
March 17, 2007 (Saturday)
Tiny but some fun ones. Crowded now.
Posted at 6:03 PM
March 16, 2007 (Friday)
Small and clean earlier, now windy and sloppy.
Posted at 1:23 PM
March 15, 2007 (Thursday)
Small. Glassy and smooth earlier now light to moderate SW winds.
Posted at 1:25 PM
March 14, 2007 (Wednesday)
Good conditions, okay form, extremely-long waits (some over-head).
Posted at 1:31 PM
Posted at 7:55 AM
March 13, 2007 (Tuesday)
At home just before leaving, it was cloudy/drizzly. By the time I got to the beach, however, the clouds had begun to break and the wind was blowing light east. The place was empty. There were no parked cars, and no one was out in the water. Nothing--nobody. I was stoked.
As I walked on the beach, one other guy had arrived. We paddled out at opposite ends, which meant I had my regular spot all to myself. I was surprised at the conditions. It was almost glassy. But the form, of course, was still sloppy and messed up.
Immediately I started catching waves and doing my thing. There were some slightly-over-head sets. Very doubly: Basically jacking up on the outside, capping off, then re-forming farther in. I was snagging some fun ones, though.
Then it got crowed. Whoom! Everyone and their best friend landed in the lineup. Soon thereafter, the winds switched to southerly, the form deteriorated accordingly, and the sets died. Guess I really had scored it at the best time. Who would've known?
Posted at 10:33 PM
March 12, 2007 (Monday)
About 1-2 with 3s, moderate onshore, sloppy.
Posted at 1:29 PM
March 11, 2007 (Sunday)
One solid set when I paddled out then worsened progressively. Right now, about 1-2 with rare 3s. Moderate trades. Not too crowded.
Posted at 1:43 PM
March 10, 2007 (Saturday)
Crowded everywhere--except the A-framer. Had it to myself for two hours then last hour with two regulars who paddled over from the Right-hander.
The beach and the street were quite a scene. Constant stream of people watching, walking around, sightseeing. Lots of cars driving by, stopping, no open stalls even along the roadside. Thought I was on the North Shore. Really amazing for such mediocre waves and poor sunbathing weather. Is this a portent of things to come this summer? Guess so: circus the likes of which we've never seen.
Posted at 6:38 PM
March 9, 2007 (Friday)
Yes! Moderate onshore. Kooks? A few, perhaps, here and there, but essentially empty. Just a few of the regulars and me. Or maybe we're the kooks? No matter. So long as They aren't out it's irrelevant what label is applied to whom.
Posted at 1:43 PM
March 8, 2007 (Thursday)
Def.: Kook. Overly aggressive with little or no skill; creates a hazard through recklessness and lack of ability.
Posted at 11:58 PM
Smaller and more east. Weak and mushy.
To all kooks: F*** you.
Posted at 12:23 PM
March 7, 2007 (Wednesday)
F***ING. KOOKS. My beloved A-framer was infested. Ruined my day.
Posted at 1:37 PM
March 6, 2007 (Tuesday)
Surfed out! Tired shoulders, sunburned, rash. Four-hour wavefest.
Except for the final half hour, it was non-stop paddling and surfing. Small and sloppy but fun. One other regular then another joined near the end; then both went in, and I closed the club alone.
My new board is total insanity. That's what made today such a blast. Very fast and nimble. Bashing the foam/lip, going straight up, or turning/slicing tight in the slot is easy because it rides on top and doesn't want to pearl. Throws huge sprays. Catches waves easily.
Even if you take off deep and late, the board lifts off quickly and propels itself forward to get out in front. It responds to the steepness--the more vertical, the more above-the-water planing effect and the more acceleration.
The board is crazy-lively. It skips across the water and continually reacts with increased speed to all inputs. It darts all over the place and facilitates hit-and-run damage. The thing is a marvel.
Posted at 11:18 PM
March 5, 2007 (Monday)
Same size (small), good conditions, kinda west-y. Kook City.
Posted at 1:33 PM
March 4, 2007 (Sunday)
Same size with better conditions, but I had more fun yesterday.
Posted at 1:36 PM
March 3, 2007 (Saturday)
Small and sloppy but fun. Initially, light onshore and no sets, then wind more east with surge of waves, then onshore and nothing again.
Please indulge me. The reason I enjoyed myself was because of my new board. It works nuts. I know I've been saying this with each one I get, but this model is the best I've had so far from anyone. Since I finally got the hang of it, I can't tell you enough how well it's been performing.
It does everything my F6 did and better. It catches waves more easily (because, I think, I have to move up closer to the nose when paddling), and it's super fast (down the line and around sections); it gouges with huge spray; it pivots quickly and crisply without the fins losing contact even in the steepest areas; it effortlessly climbs the foam and lip (even with steps/bumps/chop in the face); and it's very resistant to pearling. It makes me feel comfortable and confident. I love this frickin' board.
Posted at 6:47 PM
March 2, 2007 (Friday)
It's small and sloppy, but it's slightly bigger with what seems like new energy. "Less wind, more kooks."
Posted at 1:35 PM
March 1, 2007 (Thursday)
Pretty much the same.
Posted at 12:21 PM
Series of small south swells every 4-6 days.
Posted at 9:30 AM