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March 26, 2007 (Monday)
Not Worth It
I absolutely didn't want to wait at Haleiwa on Saturday for my Senior heat. What was funny was that a few guys were telling me I should stay because the waves were better than in Town.
But waste time doing nothing for three and a half hours so I could surf fifteen minutes? How could that be a smart trade off? They were confusing the quality, which was mediocre at best, with the opportunity to enjoy it, which was minimal.
There was so much more I could be doing at home, like simply napping (which is extremely important to me) or getting organized for my trip. Oh yeah, by the bye, I'm going on vacation for two weeks beginning Tuesday, and I'll be traveling abroad. I'm extremely excited. It's going to be a blast.
But all that time out of the water, with no surf, no surfing? How will I fare, psychologically, emotionally, physically? That'll be my longest period not surfing in almost fifteen years. Isn't that amazing (or sad)? Surfing every day for that many years with the greatest break being about one week (a few times). Wonder if my tendonitis or arthritis will improve?
Anyway, right now I'm very happy. Tonight was my last at work until I return. Tomorrow I'm off, then Tuesday it's absolute personal relaxation in another country for fourteen days.
Posted at 12:29 AM