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March 6, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Surfed out! Tired shoulders, sunburned, rash. Four-hour wavefest.
Except for the final half hour, it was non-stop paddling and surfing. Small and sloppy but fun. One other regular then another joined near the end; then both went in, and I closed the club alone.
My new board is total insanity. That's what made today such a blast. Very fast and nimble. Bashing the foam/lip, going straight up, or turning/slicing tight in the slot is easy because it rides on top and doesn't want to pearl. Throws huge sprays. Catches waves easily.
Even if you take off deep and late, the board lifts off quickly and propels itself forward to get out in front. It responds to the steepness--the more vertical, the more above-the-water planing effect and the more acceleration.
The board is crazy-lively. It skips across the water and continually reacts with increased speed to all inputs. It darts all over the place and facilitates hit-and-run damage. The thing is a marvel.
Posted at 11:18 PM