March 13, 2007 (Tuesday)
At home just before leaving, it was cloudy/drizzly. By the time I got to the beach, however, the clouds had begun to break and the wind was blowing light east. The place was empty. There were no parked cars, and no one was out in the water. Nothing--nobody. I was stoked.
As I walked on the beach, one other guy had arrived. We paddled out at opposite ends, which meant I had my regular spot all to myself. I was surprised at the conditions. It was almost glassy. But the form, of course, was still sloppy and messed up.
Immediately I started catching waves and doing my thing. There were some slightly-over-head sets. Very doubly: Basically jacking up on the outside, capping off, then re-forming farther in. I was snagging some fun ones, though.
Then it got crowed. Whoom! Everyone and their best friend landed in the lineup. Soon thereafter, the winds switched to southerly, the form deteriorated accordingly, and the sets died. Guess I really had scored it at the best time. Who would've known?
Posted at 10:33 PM