« April 2007 | Extempore | June 2007 »
May 31, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
Small but still something--extremely long waits. Not light winds: moderate trades. Beautiful day with good conditions.
Posted at 1:01 PM
May 30, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Started off great. Caught two awesome ones immediately. When I first got out, it seemed dismal. Then after a few minutes, out of nowhere, came some juicy, lined-up, wall-ages that surprised me.
I was doing well, somewhat redeeming myself after yesterday's lackluster session. I was snagging all the good ones. I wasn't hogging; just that everyone else was clueless and didn't know where to wait.
Basically, I had a blast for about 45 minutes. And then the sets died, and it got crowded. But I was totally satisfied--and I hadn't been out for even an hour. The half dozen, or so, waves that I got were enough.
Posted at 1:21 PM
May 29, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Smaller. Some promising ones initially; then total crap.
Felt out of it. These previous weeks, have been doing very well; but today it was weak/fluffy and sloppy--completely different from yesterday--and my surfing matched. It was like my board couldn't find an edge; I couldn't set my rail.
Posted at 8:17 PM
May 28, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Inconsistent but fun.
Posted at 1:17 PM
May 27, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Still some occasional over-headers. Rippable and fun when they come in--very inconsistent. Had a few awesome rides. Not too crowded. The regulars were dominating. Light-moderate trades. Rising tide making it mushy.
Posted at 1:06 PM
May 26, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Everyone leaving said it was good and that I would have fun. Silly them.
It didn't look so great. At first it was promising, then it turned to bunk. Sound familiar? It worsened until near the end of the session it was simply wind-slop. I'm happy, though, that it's windy because otherwise all the kooks would be out. The wind is my friend. I can't tell you enough how nice it is to drive up and not see the place clogged with cars and people. Then of course in the water it's empty and open with lots of room.
I did have the opportunity to watch one of our local pros do his thing. He's an older guy, formerly (I think) on the J-circuit (and originally from Japan). You know who he is.
He's so smooth and fluid. I couldn't help but think his board has much to do with it. You're pushed to that conclusion simply because of his maneuvers and the way it cuts through the water. There's not much foam--it's thin (and probably narrow). I wanted to ask him about the dimensions, but I didn't. I wished I could surf like him, emulate his moves. He has power, yes, but he's polished and seemingly infallible (no mistakes, mis-starts, or errors).
Posted at 6:34 PM
May 25, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Smaller. There's something, but it's windy and sloppy.
Posted at 1:09 PM
May 24, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
At first, it was awesome. Big (solid 4s), long walls with push, and challenging takeoffs. Then it turned to total crap. Now it's about the same as yesterday.
Posted at 12:15 PM
May 23, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Although it's smaller, there seems to be new energy. Disorganized and sloppy with moderate trades. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:16 PM
May 22, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
It's dropped a lot, but there are still some occasional "bombs." Started at the regular place. The waits were long. Seemed pretty dismal. Then some surprising big sets came in, and that offered hope. But much too inconsistent.
Could see that the originally huge crowd at the Right-hander had thinned significantly, so I paddled over because yesterday was so much fun: I wanted more. At first it was slow with a poor angle and all-shoulder and not much wall.
Then, all of a sudden, everything improved, and I started to have a blast. The sets got consistent and the direction shifted to the main bowl and it was lining up all the way across. Super fun.
I was doing well again. My board was working great. I had some incredible rides, truly. Did several straight-up blasts that freaked me out. Then it got crowded again; and then it thinned again. At the end of the session, I was tired/burnt and surfed-out. Would have to say this was my best time this summer so far. I'm thankful that the trades are back.
Posted at 7:23 PM
May 21, 2007 (Monday)
In Reflection
You know, this morning was fun. I had some really good rides. My board was working fantastically, and I felt great. I've been doing quite well, of late. Been getting some respect, too, which is always necessary when it's crowded.
What makes me the most happy, though, is that I'm improving. I'm surfing better now, albeit incrementally, than I was the same time last year, for instance. I couldn’t ask for more. I mean, a lot of people my age are riding longboards and would be lucky to snag anything on a day like this one that was packed with young, aggressive shortboarders (some of them quite capable).
I'm very fortunate. And even in spite of my maladies, I can go out and have a good time and do my share of damage.
It has a lot to do with equipment. There's absolutely no doubt about it. My new boards from WT have allowed me to become a better surfer. I've increased my skill. I don't give a f**k what anyone else says, EQUIPMENT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.
BTW, my friend said there was a big tiger shark near Diamond Head this afternoon. Snatched a diver's load. Same friend also reports that Mr. Slater was surfing Wailupe around noon.
Posted at 11:37 PM
Post-session
I think, overall, it's bigger. Started at the Right-hander. The angles and direction were a bit jumbled and mixed, but I had several good rides in the middle and inside areas that left me satisfied. For the last 20 minutes, or so, I went over to the A-framer for a few. Light onshore wind is making it mushy. Crowded.
Heard there's a lot of man o' war at Kewalo's. I made sure to clarify that it’s not jellyfish, and the guy told me it's not. Said one girl needed an ambulance.
Posted at 1:17 PM
Lament
It's been fun, but it's so-o crowded. What a drag. Guess today will be packed too; but at least it's a weekday.
Posted at 9:39 AM
May 20, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
The A-framer again. Chunky with over-head sets. Fun until near the end when the sets died. All spots are choked with people.
Posted at 1:20 PM
May 19, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
It looked good everywhere, especially the Right-hander, but it was packed. Surfed the A-framer. Small and weak.
Posted at 6:08 PM
You Decide
Posted at 12:37 AM
May 18, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
It's small, but the water feels awesome.
Posted at 1:20 PM
May 17, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
Small and weak. Crowded. Beautiful day.
Posted at 12:19 PM
May 16, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Small and decent conditions/form. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:14 PM
May 15, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Small and gutless, but I had some fun ones. Not crowded.
Posted at 7:52 PM
May 14, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Worse. About the same size but much less wave action, especially on the inside. It's dismal. And the college kids are out in force--it's choked with people.
Posted at 1:13 PM
May 13, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Tiny and mushy with good conditions. Water feels great. A bit crowded.
Posted at 1:10 PM
May 12, 2007 (Saturday)
Not Bad But Could've Been Better
Contest at Kewalo's. Open: first-round (six-man), 4th, eliminated; Senior: first-round (5-man), 1st, advance; finals (6-man), 3rd.
Posted at 5:10 PM
May 11, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Tiny and windy.
Posted at 1:06 PM
May 10, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
Small and windy/sloppy but fun--I had a blast. Empty.
Posted at 12:26 PM
May 9, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Small, slightly less wind. Empty.
Posted at 1:12 PM
Taking It On The Head
This shot of a plane landing is incredible. The closeness of the runway to the beach offers mind-blowing viewing (via kottke).
Posted at 9:32 AM
May 7, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Small and moderately windy but fun/rippable. Empty.
Posted at 1:23 PM
May 6, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Huge difference. Small and incredibly weak.
Posted at 1:05 PM
May 5, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Yeeeaaahh. Right-hander. Super fun. Warbly and disorganized--exactly as if there had been several days of strong onshore winds that suddenly stopped. Crowded.
Started at the A-framer because there were a lot of people at the RH. But the A simply was not happening: wrong angle, shutting down. Paddled over to the RH. Kicked back, bided my time, and sat patiently for my turn. Several regulars were out with a middle tier of capable non-regs and then a bottom level of low-skill intermediates scouring the inside.
Finally got some in-betweeners and smaller set-waves and then found my rhythm and began scoring a lot of good ones. Three bowls were working: long shots, middle, and the corner near the channel that comes in east-y. Once I found my place in the lineup and settled in, I started to have a blast. Eventually it cleared out and there were about three or four of us snagging all the best waves.
Things went well for me. I had an awesome session. My last ride was great, and as I belly-boarded in I was grinning from ear to ear and hooting under my breath. I couldn't stop smiling as I walked back to my car. Surfed out and completely satisfied. Fantastic day off.
Posted at 6:23 PM
So To Speak
Although I loathe the look-and-feel of the site, SNN is somewhat useful. Today, they used a metaphor that I liked to describe the south shore "wave energy & direction": scattered (as opposed to focused, ordered, or organized). It's one that you can really grasp with your mind's hand.
I'm willing to bet it's crowded today because the winds are supposed to be light. You know they all come out when it's like that. Where might I find sanctuary?
Posted at 10:44 AM
May 4, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
It looked good everywhere, especially the Right-hander. But it was crowded, so I opted for the A-framer, which was fun initially then turned to crap. When I was leaving, the RH was firing and not as crowded but still congested.
Posted at 1:15 PM
Up The Ante
Let's make it riskier: BASE jump + catapult = this (via Boing Boing).
Posted at 12:22 AM
May 3, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
It's bigger, for sure, but it's sloppy and weak. Windy. Empty.
Posted at 12:13 PM
$$$
My new board is ready. It's simply a copy of the one I've got now. My next order will be for a 5' 10". same model (K3).
Posted at 9:22 AM
May 2, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
It's worse--really bad. Slightly bigger but very windy and weak. Absolutely no push and almost like wind swell. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:26 PM
Prelim
Heard it's max. 3-ft. and windy as heck.
Posted at 11:16 AM
May 1, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Another good one. Something's in the air. My execution and timing were dead-on. That's two days in a row, now. The new swell isn't showing really. It's slightly bigger, but there's not much energy in the water.
I've had my new board for 2.25 months, and it's still opening up to me. I'm finding that I don't have to do a life-or-death power-gouge to put it fully on the rail. Especially on a small/weak wave, I've always felt I've had to blast the turn; but with this board I simply flick it off the tail--and it still throws a lot of water.
This model (K3) is the best one for me so far. Finally concluded that I need to go shorter for my primary shortboard, probably 5' 10". Right now it's 6' 0". Shaving off two inches of volume will give something I can truly whip around.
Need to ride some lefts this week. But I've been having so much fun at my regular place, I'm reluctant to go elsewhere, particularly because it's been empty. Hearing divergent forecasts about the swell. Mostly, that it's not going to be too big.
Posted at 7:37 PM