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May 5, 2007 (Saturday)

Post-session

Yeeeaaahh. Right-hander. Super fun. Warbly and disorganized--exactly as if there had been several days of strong onshore winds that suddenly stopped. Crowded.

Started at the A-framer because there were a lot of people at the RH. But the A simply was not happening: wrong angle, shutting down. Paddled over to the RH. Kicked back, bided my time, and sat patiently for my turn. Several regulars were out with a middle tier of capable non-regs and then a bottom level of low-skill intermediates scouring the inside.

Finally got some in-betweeners and smaller set-waves and then found my rhythm and began scoring a lot of good ones. Three bowls were working: long shots, middle, and the corner near the channel that comes in east-y. Once I found my place in the lineup and settled in, I started to have a blast. Eventually it cleared out and there were about three or four of us snagging all the best waves.

Things went well for me. I had an awesome session. My last ride was great, and as I belly-boarded in I was grinning from ear to ear and hooting under my breath. I couldn't stop smiling as I walked back to my car. Surfed out and completely satisfied. Fantastic day off.

Posted at 6:23 PM