« May 2007 | Extempore | July 2007 »
June 30, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Not closing. Fairly inconsistent. Weak and slope-y from the high tide. Windy and sloppy. Had some fun ones. Wasn't crowded at my regular peak, although adjacent spots had many kooks.
Posted at 7:27 PM
Go or No?
I can't tell you enough how tempted I am right now to go down to the Ala Moana Apple Store and buy an iPhone. I would simply charge it to my CC, which itself should tell you how crazy the idea is because I'm in poor financial shape right now and absolutely cannot afford such an expense (read: luxury).
Everything I've been hearing, though, says this thing is awesome. All reports are that it lives up to expectations/hype. One person said it "feels like just about the coolest device I've ever owned." Another said that a quite rigorous ("scientific") test of the call quality resulted in ratings that were the "Best they've seen." Apparently, there is ample stock at all stores around the country. One guy said he went there today just after noon (Midwest time) and there was no line and the entire transaction took two minutes.
Posted at 11:08 AM
Hear, Say
Ugly and disorganized.
Posted at 9:12 AM
June 29, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Slightly over-head max. Very long waits. Windy and sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:17 PM
June 28, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
One big set and then nothing. Not much bigger than yesterday. Blown. Empty.
Posted at 12:27 PM
June 27, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Showing signs. Some rare head-high but sloppy.
Posted at 1:28 PM
June 26, 2007 (Tuesday)
One More Thing
By the bye, I've got a new board waiting at the shop but haven't been able to pick it up due to "lack of sufficient funds," which really should be the tagline for my life story. Will probably be able to get it next Tuesday. It's the same thing as what I'm riding now. But I think for my next all-arounder I'll go a bit shorter, perhaps 5' 10". That's because I pretty much ride small- to medium-sized Town (I know: sad). Less foam will allow me to flagellate that sucker.
Posted at 11:54 PM
Post-session
Although it seemed slightly bigger, it was sloppy as heck. Chopped/crossed up and weak. Pretty much total crap. Oh, did I mention my new fins work awesomely?
Posted at 11:52 PM
June 25, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Same.
Posted at 1:19 PM
June 24, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Small and windy--crappy.
Posted at 1:26 PM
June 23, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Bigger. At first very sloppy and inconsistent, then much better near the end of the session. Had some good ones in the middle and inside--the outside was weak and slow. Not crowded then packed. Been hearing the afternoons are good.
I actually had a lot of fun because I was using some new fins, the Vector II 437 Black Stix. It took me several waves to get acclimated, but once I got comfortable with (awakened) the fins they worked unreal. Better than the VII 437s in Fiber Glass that I've been using (which are prototypes and not available at retail). There is a difference. The Black Stix perform like they have some give and flex, although they are physically stiffer than the Glass. I guess you'd say they have better release. Whatever it is, I love them and will use them as my standard setup.
Posted at 7:21 PM
June 22, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Smaller. Inconsistent. Sloppy.
Posted at 1:20 PM
June 21, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
Bigger. It's fun, and it's empty.
Posted at 12:33 PM
June 20, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Slightly bigger. Sloppy/choppy. Crowded. Several rippers (local pros).
Posted at 1:18 PM
June 19, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Small and weak but do-able. Kinda crowded--probably because it's not too windy.
Posted at 6:21 PM
June 18, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Overall smaller but some occasional head-high and kinda fun. Not crowded. Moderate trades.
Posted at 1:25 PM
June 17, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Smaller but better form. Less wind. Some fun ones with long waits.
Posted at 1:20 PM
June 16, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Occasional over-head, chunky, and extremely sloppy.
Posted at 7:07 PM
June 15, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Bigger. Windy. Empty.
Posted at 1:20 PM
June 14, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
There's new energy but seems to be missing. Inconsistent. Windy and sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 12:24 PM
June 13, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Showing signs but still crappy (wind, high tide).
Posted at 1:17 PM
June 12, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Small and very weak.
Posted at 3:51 PM
June 11, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Slightly bigger, but wind and rising high tide making it very sloppy. Not crowded. Water feels awesome--warm.
Posted at 1:13 PM
June 10, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
There's something, but it's atrocious: small and sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:14 PM
June 9, 2007 (Saturday)
Cellar--Again
Contest at Bowls. Senior: first round, 2nd (out of 5), advance; finals, 6th (out of 6). Didn't catch squat in the finals. Shut down. Always blow it. Kook.
Posted at 5:28 PM
June 8, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Small.
Posted at 1:00 PM
June 7, 2007 (Thursday)
Post-session
Fun initially--still some occasional good ones--now sets getting slow. Slightly crowded.
Posted at 12:21 PM
June 6, 2007 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Left-hander. Pretty good. Consistent enough with some occasional 4s. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:17 PM
June 5, 2007 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Some places might be getting it better. My regular spot was inconsistent with some rare bigger sets. It's boring, but I had some fun ones. Certain big-wave breaks are working, so it seems the direction is a critical factor.
Posted at 5:35 PM
Migosh
Sometimes I read my stuff, and it makes me laugh. Probably gives you a chuckle too.
Yesterday was actually pretty good initially at the Left-hander. Not crowded with lined-up, head-high sets and good conditions. But my backhand is retarded. Really needs a lot of work and fine-tuning. I'm very unsure and awkward. Timing is off astronomically.
Will be surfing there all week. Need to resurrect.
Posted at 11:09 AM
June 4, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Left-hander. Fun at first then crowded and sets got slow.
Posted at 1:12 PM
June 3, 2007 (Sunday)
Post-session
Worse. Smaller. Painfully-long lulls.
Posted at 1:11 PM
June 2, 2007 (Saturday)
Post-session
Inconsistent. Boring. Some head-high. Moderate trades. Not crowded.
Posted at 5:45 PM
Retrospective Commentaiton
It's been fun the previous several weeks. Scored some really good sessions--probably the best for me of late. I'm extremely happy with my board and the way I've been surfing. Of course, my skill level isn't that high, but I'm quite satisfied with my execution and the way I've been interacting with my equipment. I feel comfortable and relaxed, and I haven't been error-prone. In turn, that's given me confidence, which is essential to removing the obstacles to free expression. And I think that applies to any endeavor, to any sport or art. Creativity can't flow if you're forced to struggle with the medium or focused on overcoming your self.
And it's been crowded. Some days have been like the North Shore in terms of vehicle traffic, beachgoers, sightseers, and surfers. No parking. People everywhere. But that's primarily when the wind is calm and the conditions/form near-perfect. That's why I'd much rather it windy and sloppy to keep away the kooks. But although it's been packed, I've been getting my share. This is due, though, in large part to the fact that I'm a regular, and I know everyone, and I'm thoroughly familiar with the break(s) that I'm surfing. Those things can make all the difference.
The weather has been fantastic, and we should have more good waves on the way. I'm looking forward to it.
Posted at 10:33 AM
June 1, 2007 (Friday)
Post-session
Mediocre and boring. Some head-high but extremely long waits. Not crowded. Beautiful day with good conditions (moderate trades)--again.
Posted at 1:12 PM