September 30, 2007 (Sunday)
It looked dismal from the beach. Expectations were low, but it was much better than it appeared. I was surprised and actually had more fun in the first hour than I did during yesterday's entire session.
I was surfing okay and did some good turns. As peak low tide arrived, the already inconsistent sets became more infrequent and smaller. The biggest ones in the beginning did indicate some new energy; but all signs vanished as the tide bottomed.
Posted at 7:42 PM
September 29, 2007 (Saturday)
It was small and crappy for me. And I was kooking--again. But afterward watching from the car, it was definitely getting better. Sets were more consistent and bigger. I think now it's showing signs of new energy. Crowded.
Posted at 2:11 PM
September 28, 2007 (Friday)
Another bad one. I was struggling again at The Right-hander. Could not make things happen. Dan K., on the other hand, was killing it. (I told him he has a new nickname: Destroyer.) He was obliterating the knee-high mush.
When we first got out, it was small and sloppy; then it steadily improved with more consistent and slightly bigger sets. Near the end of the session it got crappy. It wasn't crowded.
Posted at 6:08 PM
Get In My Belly--Now!
Posted at 10:15 AM
September 27, 2007 (Thursday)
Very disappointing. Much the same size and conditions, but I was struggling big time. Couldn't get it together. No leash and swam four times, two of which were all the way in. The waves I selected were riddled with little chops in the face; I had difficulty linking turns or simply staying with the wave. In fact, almost every one of my rides was on a warbled, deformed and butchered surface that I was unable to overcome.
Posted at 5:43 PM
September 26, 2007 (Wednesday)
Smaller. Some decent ones still sneaking in, if you know where to wait. Windy and sloppy. Empty.
Posted at 8:35 PM
September 25, 2007 (Tuesday)
Smaller, weak, sloppy. Do-able. Not crowded.
Posted at 5:50 PM
September 24, 2007 (Monday)
Small and very inconsistent. But The Right-hander was fun. Had several good rides and was surfing well. Not crowded.
Posted at 4:13 PM
September 23, 2007 (Sunday)
There's still something, but the waits are excruciating. Empty initially now crowded.
Posted at 4:42 PM
September 22, 2007 (Saturday)
Checked Kewalo's. Had three hours until my heat so went to my usual spot. It was empty. Windy and sloppy but with inconsistent over-head sets and empty. Caught a handful of good ones after more than an hour and headed back to the Basin.
It was about knee- to chest-high with fairly good conditions and form. Grand Master (yes, I'm that old): first round, 1st (out of 6), advance; finals, 5th (out of 6). I really need to count how many times I've won my first heat and then finished last (or near it). It's my most common scenario.
Posted at 6:20 PM
Got a small head cold. Don't feel all too well. Gonna do the Kewalo's event this morning. I'm not into it, but the waves should be decent. Will check it out soon; if the wait is too long (for my heat), then will just come home and surf this afternoon at the usual place.
Haven't surfed lefts since beginning of summer, so will surely kook (more than normally). That's okay. Perhaps rights will be working?
Posted at 10:07 AM
September 21, 2007 (Friday)
Really sloppy and disorganized (haphazard and random). Smaller.
So apparently yesterday was good in the morning and late afternoon--in other words, except when I was out. I believe it. Just pisses me off.
Posted at 2:20 PM
September 20, 2007 (Thursday)
Heard it was good before I got there, and the indications were that such was still the case. However, shortly after I got out it turned to blown-out crap. There was some size--slightly over-head at the biggest--but super sloppy and actually kinda weak.
Posted at 5:57 PM
September 19, 2007 (Wednesday)
Pretty much the same. No sign of new energy. Empty.
Posted at 2:55 PM
September 17, 2007 (Monday)
Wind-slop. Some rare head-high bowls. Strong trades. Empty.
Posted at 2:21 PM
September 16, 2007 (Sunday)
Crap. Residual mixed with wind-slop. Not crowded.
Posted at 12:38 PM
September 15, 2007 (Saturday)
Long waits but some fun head-high to slightly over-head walls. Empty.
No one was out, I guess, because of the Thunderbirds show? I myself had planned to surf earlier then bike to Waikiki for the show, but I got home late from work last night and slept in, which threw off my morning schedule.
The way I figured it based on the time and the quality of the waves, just when I would want to go in would be right about 2:30. So I resolved to stay out anyway and watch from the water because I probably wouldn't be able to get back home before the start, and I didn't want to cut short my session.
It was an incredible view from the water. Of course, we couldn't see the main show area that is the visual focus of the maneuvers, but the jets were flying right over us. They would come out of the Koko Head direction and sweep in at what looked like less than a hundred feet in altitude just in front of us toward the horizon. They were so close we could clearly see the pilot.
I seemed to be the most excited by the whole thing. A few others were stocked; most people didn't seem to care, which truly shocked me. I caught only two waves then because I was so engrossed with watching. I think they curtailed the show due to the clouds--didn't seem like 45 minutes.
I was so-o jealous of the firemen who were standing on Leahi Point. DH State Monument was closed. But these guys arrived by HFD helicopter and landed on one of the pillboxes. They then climbed onto the roof of the pillared concrete observation platform perched at the very pinnacle of the Point. Can you imagine the view from there? Must've been absolutely stunning.
Posted at 4:48 PM
September 14, 2007 (Friday)
Slightly smaller. Long waits.
Posted at 1:12 PM
September 13, 2007 (Thursday)
When it comes in it's frickin' good.
Posted at 12:43 PM
September 12, 2007 (Wednesday)
About the same. Perhaps slightly smaller.
Posted at 1:11 PM
September 11, 2007 (Tuesday)
The A-framer sucked. Ideal angle but small. The Right-hander is good right now--small but consistent and rippable with only four guys.
Posted at 1:17 PM
September 10, 2007 (Monday)
Might be some new (albeit weak) energy. Lots of wave action on the inside. But messy and sloppy. I had some fun ones. Empty.
Posted at 8:42 PM
September 9, 2007 (Sunday)
Slightly bigger. Very inconsistent. Mushy and choppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 12:46 PM
September 8, 2007 (Saturday)
Still something but very long waits. Rare head-high at biggest. Extremely weak and mushy.
Posted at 9:52 AM
September 7, 2007 (Friday)
Slightly smaller. Same form/conditions.
Posted at 1:12 PM
September 6, 2007 (Thursday)
Fun. Smallish and mushy. Light-moderate trades.
Posted at 12:29 PM
September 5, 2007 (Wednesday)
Slightly bigger. Inconsistent and sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:05 PM
September 4, 2007 (Tuesday)
Slightly bigger but otherwise the same.
Posted at 6:29 PM
September 3, 2007 (Monday)
Small and very sloppy.
Posted at 12:56 PM
September 2, 2007 (Sunday)
Posted at 1:28 PM
September 1, 2007 (Saturday)
Still some decent sets, but the waits are dreadfully long. Had a handful of fun rides. Was surfing well and felt great on my board (comfortable and in-tune).
Then near the end of the session, I got pummeled by the lip while taking off on a thick double and hurt my bum hip/leg. I stayed and was able to keep surfing; but out of the water I have difficulty walking--very painful.
Posted at 7:48 PM