Extempore

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September 1, 2007 (Saturday)

Post-session

Still some decent sets, but the waits are dreadfully long. Had a handful of fun rides. Was surfing well and felt great on my board (comfortable and in-tune).

Then near the end of the session, I got pummeled by the lip while taking off on a thick double and hurt my bum hip/leg. I stayed and was able to keep surfing; but out of the water I have difficulty walking--very painful.

Posted at 7:48 PM