October 31, 2007 (Wednesday)
About the same. Crappy. Empty.
Posted at 2:52 PM
October 30, 2007 (Tuesday)
Smaller. Windy. Junk. Empty.
Posted at 3:03 PM
October 29, 2007 (Monday)
Bigger. Windy. Very fun. Not crowded.
Posted at 6:19 PM
October 28, 2007 (Sunday)
Slightly bigger with same conditions/form.
Posted at 3:39 PM
October 27, 2007 (Saturday)
Right-hander. Definitely some new energy. Very windy and sloppy but fun. The takeoffs were challenging; and there was a lot of chop in the faces, but that created many seams and creases to launch into turns. I had a blast. And it was wonderfully empty (too windy for you wimps?).
Posted at 2:44 PM
October 26, 2007 (Friday)
Same size. Very windy.
Posted at 2:54 PM
October 25, 2007 (Thursday)
Posted at 2:44 PM
October 24, 2007 (Wednesday)
Slightly smaller and windy. Empty (gee, I wonder why?).
Posted at 2:29 PM
October 23, 2007 (Tuesday)
Oh, I'm a surfer. I've got a pipe rack on my new truck. Got stickers on my surfboards (an EPS quad with bat tail and epoxy longboard) too. I don't go out if the waves are small or if the conditions aren't epic. I'm a ripper.
Posted at 6:40 PM
At least the same size. Surfed the A-framer in solitude. Very tranquil and relaxing. Just what I needed. The trades are back, and that was a welcomed change.
To all the kooks: F*** YOU! Hey, here's an idea...why don't you go to Lanis or Chun's and surf with a hundred of your bretheren? Assholes.
Posted at 6:20 PM
October 22, 2007 (Monday)
Why don't all you f***ing kooks who come out only when there's no wind go back to where you came from (Queen's, Threes, Concessions, etc.). You all suck. And you all ride longboards. Poseurs.
Pretty much the same but smaller. Started at the usual spot and paddled to the Right-hander and then to the A-framer (which was actually kinda fun with only one of the regulars and me). Just couldn't take the crowd anymore. Too many frickin' people and not enough frickin' waves. Hogs, novices, and plain ignorant dumb-asses clogging the lineup. Selfish, aggressive, and clueless--now that's a combination, no?
Posted at 10:42 PM
October 21, 2007 (Sunday)
Very disappointing. My usual spot. Pretty much going off. Apparently, this morning was epic: solid 3-5, top-to-bottom barrels, lined-up, glassy, yada yada. One guy said, "It was big...break-your-board-kine big."
When I got there, it was an inconsistent and slightly mushy 2-3 with perhaps some rare 4s. Kinda crowded. I had a difficult and frustrating time. Extremely competitive and lots of longies. They were snagging peaks from farther out and also out-positioning me. You know I'm used to catching the best ones and dominating, but today was a different story, and that was hard on the ego.
I might've had a handful of good rides, but considering I was out for four hours, that's not a high wave count. This had to be one of the best days of the year, and I didn't have much fun. BTW, saw three snapped boards--all longboards.
And there was no parking anywhere. Cars and people all over the place. The entire area was like one huge parking lot with spectators gawking like it was the Eddie. What a circus.
Posted at 9:57 PM
October 20, 2007 (Saturday)
New energy. Extremely surprising. Over-head sets. Where'd it come from? Might be east-y because I'm hearing that most Town spots are zero-zilch-zip. It wasn't crowded. The downside was the tide. Too much water made the form weak, slope-y, and mushy. Wasn't till near the end of the session when things improved. I had some fun ones.
Posted at 11:37 PM
October 19, 2007 (Friday)
Posted at 3:37 PM
October 18, 2007 (Thursday)
Same conditions and form but smaller.
Posted at 7:52 PM
October 17, 2007 (Wednesday)
Right-hander. About the same to slightly better and fun. Not crowded. Actually I was very surprised by some of the waves. There were some over-head doubles with long walls that were throwing and lining up nicely.
Posted at 9:41 PM
October 16, 2007 (Tuesday)
Right-hander. Some stacked-up bowlages. The biggest were bigger than yesterday's. Overall, it was weak and mushy; but occasionally two peaks would combine to form a behemoth double.
What made it a bummer was that it was crowded. One incident resulted in some heated arguing and near fistfight when a kook on a longboard continually created dangerous situations through his reckless and unthinking behavior.
Posted at 7:05 PM
October 15, 2007 (Monday)
Right-hander. Bigger and not crowded. I had a blast.
But the reason I had so much fun was that I was doing very well. Felt great on my board and everything was working, meaning, I wasn't stumbling or making mistakes. Been in a slump of late, which started last Monday and lasted all the way until yesterday. But today I was able to break through it.
It's weird because it just happened, know what I mean? From my first ride, my board came alive and I simply started surfing well. Where was all that last week?
When I'm in a funk, I tend to blame my equipment. That's what seems to be the problem--that I'm struggling against my board. But really, it's me, my own self. I am conflicted, but my board can't be blamed (obviously!).
It's a frustration. It's a lack of creative certainty. It's an absence of sureness, of not knowing what to do. But when I say "know," I don't mean a process of rational understanding or series of intellectual judgments. Rather, it's the unconscious expression of an image, of a feeling, an instinct, through action. It's deliberate, but it doesn't flow from conscious decision. Yeah, doesn't make any sense. Can't describe it any other way.
Posted at 11:22 PM
October 14, 2007 (Sunday)
Right-hander. It looked like total crap from the beach. When I got out, it was very fun and only four guys. The angle was east-y with pronounced vee-shaped bowls (not really A-frames) about head-high and feeling the reef nicely. I was having a blast.
Then I lost a contact lens. So-o bummed. Had to paddle in and get a replacement. By the time I got back, there were about ten people; within half an hour, there were more than twenty, which included a handful of longies.
The sets died and the wind got stronger. It became dismal. Too many people, not enough waves.
That time I lost going in and coming back out was crucial. That was the window. I could've scored a bunch of good ones, been satisfied, then called it a day when the crowd multiplied. Instead, I was only partially sated.
Posted at 6:38 PM
Check out this BASE jumping/flying vid--it's cool.
Posted at 8:53 AM
October 13, 2007 (Saturday)
Finished last at Queen's. The waves were awful: flat to knee-high with rare waist-high. It was a beautiful day and the water was clear and warm.
Posted at 7:05 PM
October 12, 2007 (Friday)
Downward trend continuing. Crowded.
Posted at 5:29 PM
Will Work For Food
I've been unemployed for four weeks, now. It's been relaxing. But the money is gone and the bills keep coming (why is that?).
Anyway, that's why my postings have been inconsistent. Used to write just before leaving for work. But since there's no job--just "free" time--there's less of an urgency. Know what I mean?
Hawaii has the lowest unemployment in the country, something like 2-3%. That's why it's extremely difficult for companies to fill positions. There are a lot of vacancies everywhere. So why is it so hard for me to find a decent job? Must be that people who already have jobs are constantly looking and applying for other, better ones. The competition is fierce. If you have a job you like (or love), then you should consider yourself fortunate.
Posted at 10:38 AM
October 11, 2007 (Thursday)
Right-hander. Same but smaller. Crowded.
I've been struggling of late, and today was no different. Simply couldn't make things happen. Very awkward and clumsy. No focus. The Destroyer (Dan K.), on the other hand, was doing his thing.
Posted at 5:49 PM
October 10, 2007 (Wednesday)
The Right-hander. Bigger, about head-high to over-head on the sets, and seemed to be building when I left but inconsistent. Direction is S-SW with light-moderate trades. High tide making it slope-y and mushy. Crowded.
Posted at 6:38 PM
October 9, 2007 (Tuesday)
Pretty much the same but even smaller. Unusually crowded.
Posted at 3:58 PM
October 8, 2007 (Monday)
Same direction, conditions, and form but about half the size. Boring.
Posted at 7:16 PM
October 7, 2007 (Sunday)
Shocker: The Right-hander was going off when I first got out. Slightly crowded but mostly kooks. East-angled, head-high to over-head bowls swinging in from the channel (no long-shots). Lined up and feeling the reef nicely with push. Then eventually it got inconsistent and sloppier. But I had some good rides. When I went in, there were only two guys left.
Posted at 11:25 PM
October 6, 2007 (Saturday)
Smaller with occasional head-high. Windy and choppy/sloppy. Not crowded.
Posted at 4:14 PM
October 5, 2007 (Friday)
Surprisingly bigger. Handful of decent ones and then wind-slop. Not crowded.
Posted at 6:24 PM
October 4, 2007 (Thursday)
Right-hander alone. Sucked.
Posted at 5:11 PM
October 3, 2007 (Wednesday)
Posted at 3:29 PM
October 2, 2007 (Tuesday)
Wow, The Right-hander again. Bigger and fun. Would say it was going off for about an hour. Solid chest-high to slightly over-head east-angled bowls. The main peak and the middle shelf was working. Some of my best rides were on the inside. I was satisfied after an hour. This was the best stuff for me in a few weeks. Just a handful of us and then packed.
Posted at 3:46 PM
October 1, 2007 (Monday)
Wow, The Right-hander was good for about 30 minutes then the wind seemed to ruin it. It got very inconsistent, smaller, and extremely sloppy. But initially, it was semi-clean with head-high, east-y bowl-ages. Fun then bunk. Just me and one of the regulars to start, then more people soon thereafter.
Posted at 5:32 PM