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December 3, 2007 (Monday)
Post-session
Surfed RI for the first time. We paddled over. That wasn't fun.
When I got out there I was surprised. From shore, it had looked small and maybe a few guys out; but we found sizeable waves with about 10-15 people.
I would call it 2-4 with 6s and 8-foot bombs. Definitely the biggest stuff I've surfed since summer or maybe the entire year. I had difficulty stroking into the bigger ones with my 6' 0". I stayed on the inside alone. I got some good ones.
My friend went to the main peak. There was a small group of guys who had it wired and completely dominated the bowl. They were catching EVERYTHING. I waited patiently farther in and snagged whatever got by them. Some of my best rides were ones on which someone had fallen or failed the takeoff.
On the way in, one of my friends came out on a jet ski and towed us all the way. That was nice because I was burnt.
Posted at 8:32 PM