March 31, 2008 (Monday)
Slightly bigger--at first; then it all simply vanished. No idea what happened. Had an awful time. Didn't catch squat. Windy and empty.
Found out today that my hip problem is much more serious than what was initially diagnosed. Two of my doctors had told me, without relying on x-rays, that I had tendonitis. Last night a friend who's a radiologist took some pics and showed them to an ortho spec who said I have osteoarthritis. Apparently, his words were that "a hip replacement is in [my] future." I'm obviously really bummed.
Posted at 7:31 PM
March 30, 2008 (Sunday)
Slightly smaller with less wind (but still blowing hard). Better to go diving, hiking--something, anything else.
Posted at 4:05 PM
March 29, 2008 (Saturday)
I had an awful time. Totally out of it and kooking seriously.
Posted at 5:07 PM
March 28, 2008 (Friday)
Perhaps slightly bigger. Windy and sloppy--really junk. Empty.
Posted at 8:28 PM
March 27, 2008 (Thursday)
Smaller. Windy and sloppy. Surfed two spots. Not crowded then packed. Somewhat satisfied.
Posted at 8:13 PM
March 26, 2008 (Wednesday)
Bigger. New swell, for sure, but inconsistent, sloppy, and packed with knuckleheads. Happy B-day Mr. Kuhio.
Posted at 4:46 PM
March 25, 2008 (Tuesday)
Signs of new energy, yes, but very-long waits and absolutely gutless.
Posted at 6:21 PM
March 24, 2008 (Monday)
Perhaps slightly bigger but gutless and slopey (high tide is ruining it). It sucked.
Posted at 5:50 PM
March 23, 2008 (Sunday)
Slightly bigger but still crappy. Kook City.
Posted at 9:48 PM
March 22, 2008 (Saturday)
Small, windy, sloppy.
Posted at 7:31 PM
March 21, 2008 (Friday)
Junk. Crowded. Need I say more?
Posted at 7:12 PM
March 20, 2008 (Thursday)
So disappointing, my friends. Swell? Nada. No east wrap, no south--WTF?
Posted at 8:11 PM
March 19, 2008 (Wednesday)
Expected: windy and sloppy but with combined east wind-swell and new southern energy pushing in. Actual: sucked major arse.
Posted at 11:52 PM
March 18, 2008 (Tuesday)
Bigger. Still windy and blown but much more fun. I had some good rides, and my new board was working wonderfully.
Shortening the length by only an inch resulted in a significant proportional reduction in overall volume and made a dramatic improvement in performance. I think these are the ideal dimensions, so far, for my all-around board.
Posted at 11:51 PM
March 17, 2008 (Monday)
Looked better, but it was far worse. Smaller and blown to bits.
What made it at all interesting and worthwhile was my new board and the need for me to master the darn thing. I think I'm succeeding. It's working quite well. The EAs were the right call. I should've gone 5' 11" sooner--like, years ago.
Posted at 10:41 PM
March 16, 2008 (Sunday)
Slightly smaller. Same conditions/form: blown-out slop.
Finally getting the hang of my new board. Looks like it's gonna be the EAs. The first half of the session was a struggle. Then suddenly one or two turns here and there felt good--you know, clean and flowing. Rail-to-rail was the same: much effort and forced; then easier and more natural.
My last few waves was when it really all came together. Nice drive with smooth transitions, and slices and slashes that were knife-y and crisp. Seems like the EAs have just enough bite and bend for this smaller, lower-volume board that gives speed and a springiness in the tail. Hoping tomorrow I'll be able to truly get a feel for what this board can do.
Posted at 11:52 PM
March 15, 2008 (Saturday)
Really sloppy. Had an awful time. Couldn't catch anything and was always in the wrong place. The waves were definitely avoiding me. Didn't have a single good ride in two hours. Consequently, had no real opportunity to feel out my new board. Wind was blowing hard. My eyes are sore.
Posted at 9:23 PM
March 14, 2008 (Friday)
I was hoping for better; alas, 'twas for naught. Blown-out slop.
Used the EAs. Can't say they were an improvement. My new board is proving to be a puzzlement. The 437s aren't big enough, and the EAs seem to have too much surface.
Posted at 10:31 PM
March 13, 2008 (Thursday)
Perhaps bigger. Windy and not crowded. Pretty junk.
My new board paddles well and catches waves easily. In this respect, it's better; but it still lacks sufficient drive. Also, turning or pivoting hard creates the impression that it's gonna spin out and, therefore, causes me to hold back and ease off on the pressure. Will try it tomorrow with the EAs.
Posted at 8:05 PM
March 12, 2008 (Wednesday)
Looked decent, but it sucked. More wave action and slightly bigger but windy and sloppy.
Picked up my new board and used it for the first time. Everything's the same except it's an inch shorter (6' 0" > 5' 11"). It paddles really well. My body fits perfectly on it, as if the deck had been contour-molded. As a result, when I get on I instantly settle into the ideal position for efficient trimming. It just feels really comfortable. None of my others boards in recent years have done this for me. In other words, I think this length is what I needed for my all-around, workhorse shortboard.
The board had been sitting at the shop for a long time because I've been unemployed and didn't have the money for it. So it's totally cured and rock solid.
I rode it with the Vector II 437s, and it felt like I didn't have enough fin in the water. Gonna try it tomorrow one more time with the same setup; if that doesn't work, then I'll switch back to the EAs and see how that goes.
Posted at 7:41 PM
March 11, 2008 (Tuesday)
Mokes. When we got there, the conditions and form were good, but it was small. It was crowded too. We saw a friend who had just come in, and he said it had been twice the size earlier but now had backed off.
We went out, and it was fun. The crowd was totally mellow, and everyone was sharing waves. The tide was low, and the inside section was barreling over the reef shelf. Then some sets started coming in, and it really seemed like it was building (a new WNW was supposed to arrive). It wasn't long before it was just three of us. That's been the pattern these previous weeks: by mid- to late-morning, the people clear out.
Then the wind shifted. It had been calm-light variable, and now it was moderate trades (NE) and everything turned to crap. The waves stopped, and the form was bunk. We were done. But we were satisfied. We snagged many good rides. Yes, it wasn't another three-hour wavefest, but you can't have that all the time. Besides, my shoulders were tired from yesterday; the sun was blazing, and I was burnt. It was nice to get home sooner than usual.
Posted at 8:51 PM
March 10, 2008 (Monday)
Mokes. About 1-2 with 3s, inconsistent but good condtions/form and empty. Fun. No sign of forecasted WNW swell.
Posted at 11:41 PM
March 9, 2008 (Sunday)
Better. Light onshore wind made it mushy but not crowded. Slightly bigger with more wave action.
Posted at 9:31 PM
March 8, 2008 (Saturday)
This is getting ridiculous. I could barely stay standing and ride the shin-high wisps of energy that somewhow managed to find their way to the reef. At least the water was incredible: warm, clear, soothing.
Posted at 4:55 PM
March 7, 2008 (Friday)
Micro with excellent conditions. Water was nice but the waves sucked. Several of us regulars were out, and we were all groveling. It was quite humorous--and a bit pathetic.
BTW, the Vector II Black Stix 450s aren't working for me the way that I had hoped, so I've returned to the 437s. The 437s have better release for me.
I still have a new 5' 11" WT K-3 waiting for me at the shop that's been sitting for months. I'm gonna try and get it this-coming week.
Posted at 10:45 PM
March 6, 2008 (Thursday)
Exact same size but with moderate trades.
Posted at 8:31 PM
March 5, 2008 (Wednesday)
Teeny-tiny with good conditions. Crowded.
Posted at 11:16 PM
March 4, 2008 (Tuesday)
Mokes with a friend. We checked up to Chun's first, then decided to drive the other way (with memories of our sessions two weeks ago still fresh).
We pulled up, and it was definitely doable with no one out. As we stood on the beach just before hitting the water, we saw a solid 3-foot set, and we knew it was decent. The tide was low-ish, and the inside section was running over the shallow reef. On the outside, occasional over-headers were mushy and riddled with cross-chop, but a good (read: lucky) choice meant a long ride that connected all the way through.
It was boring and didn't get fun until the second half of the session. Initially I was struggling and felt really awkward and clumsy. Didn't have the intensity and aggressiveness that I needed to do damage. Then two shortboarders joined us, one of them a pro longboarder who was moonlighting, and they got me motivated.
The moderate trades backed off significantly, which allowed the form to clean up. That's when I got my best waves. Did some pretty good bashes and slashes in the pocket. Two were especially memorable. I think the inside bowl was the place to be.
When three more shorties paddled out, the four of us called it a day. I was satisfied, although not as much as the previous times we were there. Oh well, I think those two days were an exception.
Posted at 10:12 PM
March 3, 2008 (Monday)
Biggest it's been in several days. Some occasional head-high but very weak and choppy.
Posted at 9:51 PM
March 2, 2008 (Sunday)
A-framer alone. Smaller but with better conditions/form. A few decent ones.
Posted at 10:21 PM
March 1, 2008 (Saturday)
A-framer with a friend. Crappy.
Posted at 7:08 PM