Extempore

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March 11, 2008 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Mokes. When we got there, the conditions and form were good, but it was small. It was crowded too. We saw a friend who had just come in, and he said it had been twice the size earlier but now had backed off.

We went out, and it was fun. The crowd was totally mellow, and everyone was sharing waves. The tide was low, and the inside section was barreling over the reef shelf. Then some sets started coming in, and it really seemed like it was building (a new WNW was supposed to arrive). It wasn't long before it was just three of us. That's been the pattern these previous weeks: by mid- to late-morning, the people clear out.

Then the wind shifted. It had been calm-light variable, and now it was moderate trades (NE) and everything turned to crap. The waves stopped, and the form was bunk. We were done. But we were satisfied. We snagged many good rides. Yes, it wasn't another three-hour wavefest, but you can't have that all the time. Besides, my shoulders were tired from yesterday; the sun was blazing, and I was burnt. It was nice to get home sooner than usual.

Posted at 8:51 PM