« Session Recap | Extempore | Session Recap »
April 18, 2008 (Friday)
Session Recap
As I made my way to the water, I was met with divergent assessments. Some of the regulars were telling me it was smaller, some that it was bigger; others said it was dropping now, while a few said it seemed like it was building. Everyone also had their differering opinions of the best place. In the end, I opted for my regular spot, my usual peak over there alone, away from the pack.
The rip was strong. It was a constant battle to stay in position. For the first 20 minutes, or so, I kept getting sucked out and away. I could see where I needed to be, but every time I thought I was there, I wasn't.
Finally, after much effort, I was able to park and start snagging some doubled-up nuggets in the middle and inside zones. That's when the fun started. My friend (who paddled out about half an hour after) and I were getting everything.
There were a handful of people near us, but they were clueless. In fact, some were caught in the predicament I had been in earlier. They were sitting on the outside. A nice, lined-up wall would show and begin to form, and it would look like they were in the perfect place. I would be farther in. They would stroke, and then it became obvious they were too far out as the water from the rip would mix with the chop and they would spin their arms like sideways propellers, but the wave would simply flatten and pass under them--right to me. I'd turn, stroke, and drop in.
It stayed like that for about an hour. Consistent, juicy, doubled, long walls from the middle all the way across to the inside. Eventually the rising tide began to have a negative impact on the form, the wind got stronger, and it got crowded. By then, I was tired and completely satisfied. We had enjoyed playful, uncongested summertime waves uninterrupted and unchallenged. I'd say that was two hours well spent.
Posted at 10:04 PM