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June 15, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
It's great to be home. Going away is fun, but there's nothing like Hawaii.
Went out at my regular spot. As soon as I pulled up, all I could see were sizeable SW lines flowing in at all places along the coast. Wow. I was amped.
Felt unsure and unsteady on my first few waves--I know it's been only two days--but it didn't take long to get my legs back, so to speak. I was slicing and dicing in no time. Caught some really good ones and did some gratifying bashes and gouges. Sets were easily over-head. Tide was high but the waves had push and energy. I had a blast.
Like I said, it's great to be home. I missed the water and sun. Here's to a wonderful summer.
Posted at 7:12 PM