September 18, 2008 (Thursday)
I'm taking a break from posting.
Posted at 10:31 AM
September 17, 2008 (Wednesday)
Slightly bigger. Some occasional fun ones at the A-framer. Excellent angle and lined up.
Posted at 7:40 PM
September 16, 2008 (Tuesday)
Smaller and disappointing. Much worse than it looked.
Posted at 7:14 PM
September 15, 2008 (Monday)
Smaller. Calm and smooth (near-epic) conditions early, now moderate E-SE winds. Crowded.
Posted at 11:18 AM
September 14, 2008 (Sunday)
Bigger. Light variables, and it's crowded everywhere. Along the coast, each little break/reef is defined and surf-able with its own pack of people. Opted for the A-framer. It was good. Decent angle and consistent. Initially, five of us trading off, then at the end just me. The water was so-o warm.
Posted at 12:34 PM
September 13, 2008 (Saturday)
Muggy and hot, and the water was soothing. Packed everywhere. Did the A-framer alone. Some small, doable ones. Nothing exciting.
Posted at 1:27 PM
September 12, 2008 (Friday)
Crowded everywhere. Started at Psedo-Ms, waited, caught one, then moved to True-Ms. Weak, mushy, semi-consistent, waist-high dribblers. Nice day. Relaxing.
Posted at 1:24 PM
September 11, 2008 (Thursday)
My friend and I were watching from the cars, and it looked good, and it was empty. Too good to be true? You bet. It was crap. The ending was awful for me as I couldn't snag a last one. It sucked.
Posted at 9:01 PM
September 10, 2008 (Wednesday)
Smaller. Did Pseudo-Ms alone. Had a few that were decent. Missed several of the best because it was tricky to be in the right place.
Posted at 7:51 PM
September 9, 2008 (Tuesday)
Another frustrating one. It's bigger. There were some surprising sets. We started at Bs, then True-Ms, then Pseudo-Ms, then finally our regular spot. The regular place was going off. I caught a few good ones and one that was definitely a "wave of the day."
At the end, I couldn't get a last one to go in. Really maddening.
Posted at 7:39 PM
September 8, 2008 (Monday)
Smaller. Not bad with decent form and some over-headers. I just had a terrible time, that's all. Frustrating. Had much difficulty snagging waves.
Posted at 1:32 PM
September 7, 2008 (Sunday)
I was surprised. Expected it to be smaller, but it was bombing initially. When I first got out and headed to the outside, I almost got cleaned by a solid twister that was breaking top-to-bottom and growling and gnashing it's teeth as it roared all the way across in front of me. I barely escaped under the thundering lip. For real, it was big.
It soon settled down and got more manageable. There was never more than a handful of people out at any time, and I was snagging whatever I wanted. But it wasn't til near the end of the session when I really started to score. The form was improving, and some of the waves were doubling and barreling. I got three consecutive awesome rides, including my last one that totally made my day with a strong, vertical bash off the lip that had me grinning for hours afterward. Just like the other day, I didn't want to go in but had to go to work, so I was bummed. I think it was getting better, and some of the regulars who paddled out after me probably got it real good.
Now I hear there's another swell tomorrow. And the high-surf advisory is extended until Tuesday. Looks like waves all week. What a great summer it's been.
Posted at 11:41 PM
September 6, 2008 (Saturday)
Kinda big. Friend said it was huge earlier and that he got pounded and snapped his leash. Saw one broken board washing in as I paddled out. It was empty. Did my regular spot. Had fun in the beginning for about half an hour then lost my bearings and ended up paddling around like an idiot as it messy and sloppy. Not nearly as good or as much fun as yesterday.
Posted at 1:23 PM
September 5, 2008 (Friday)
Surprise: New swell. Strong energy, would call it 2-3 with 4s; for sure other spots getting 5s. Did Pseudo-Ms alone. I was catching some good ones and having a blast. Could stay only an hour and was super bummed to go in. My last wave was awesome. Near the end two guys joined me, but they were clueless. CLUELESS!
Posted at 11:22 AM
September 4, 2008 (Thursday)
Did Pseudo-Ms. Again, the waits were excruciatingly long. Might be showing signs of new energy.
Posted at 10:37 PM
September 3, 2008 (Wednesday)
Did the A-framer to escape the crowd. There was one guy already out. I actually had some fun ones. The angle was good, but the waits were oh-so long.
Posted at 8:18 PM
September 2, 2008 (Tuesday)
Smaller, crappier, very underwhelming.
Posted at 8:37 PM
September 1, 2008 (Monday)
Smaller. There's still something, but it's windy and sloppy. Crowded.
Did the Right-hander because there were only two guys out. We had it to ourselves for about 45 minutes--I had one awesome ride that made my day, and I was completely satisfied after that--then six guys paddled out, and the three of us checked out.
Posted at 12:59 PM