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September 7, 2008 (Sunday)
Session Recap
I was surprised. Expected it to be smaller, but it was bombing initially. When I first got out and headed to the outside, I almost got cleaned by a solid twister that was breaking top-to-bottom and growling and gnashing it's teeth as it roared all the way across in front of me. I barely escaped under the thundering lip. For real, it was big.
It soon settled down and got more manageable. There was never more than a handful of people out at any time, and I was snagging whatever I wanted. But it wasn't til near the end of the session when I really started to score. The form was improving, and some of the waves were doubling and barreling. I got three consecutive awesome rides, including my last one that totally made my day with a strong, vertical bash off the lip that had me grinning for hours afterward. Just like the other day, I didn't want to go in but had to go to work, so I was bummed. I think it was getting better, and some of the regulars who paddled out after me probably got it real good.
Now I hear there's another swell tomorrow. And the high-surf advisory is extended until Tuesday. Looks like waves all week. What a great summer it's been.
Posted at 11:41 PM