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November 27, 2008 (Thursday)
Session Recap
Happy Thanksgiving. Thought I'd check in with you all. It's a fine day. Sunny and breezy. And there's some moderate surf in Town.
Friend and I did the A-framer to avoid the crowds elsewhere. There were some wedge-y bowls. Definitely too much east for the A. The lefts had a strong current/rip, and getting back out was a real chore. The rights were okay, but they never lived up to what they were showing.
A juicy peak would form up in the main bowl, and the takeoff would be challenging, but after that it was weak and thin. Very disappointing. You'd think you were going to have the wave of the year, and instead all you got was a few turns that required all your effort to stay on the wave.
Anyway, I'm hungry. Cheers to a great holiday season.
Posted at 4:10 PM