March 18, 2009 (Wednesday)
Tiny. Did the A-framer alone. I had fun. A relaxing and stress-free session.
Was surfing well and my turns were tight and crisp. What was wrong? Wasn't kooking as usual, and even my hip wasn't bothering me. Felt really good on my board. Nice.
Posted at 7:42 PM
March 16, 2009 (Monday)
Beautiful morning. Simply gorgeous. Light variables and sunny. Clogged with people. My usual spot was filled with pro longies and shorties and all the usual riffraff and miscreants and poseurs who make an appearance only when the winds are calm.
Did Ms with seven longboarders, and it sucked. About waist- to head-high and oodles of potential--good angle, long walls, doubling and feeling the reef nicely--but far too inconsistent with painfully-long lulls. Just too much idle time. Would've been perfect for two people.
Near the end of the session, we all sat for over half an hour without anyone catching anything. Sad. Pathetic really.
Was bummed to go in, though, as this was my day off but had to go to work for three hours to cover for someone. Otherwise, probably would've stayed out and cruised and kicked back. As it was, had to rush and hurry in at the last moment. You know how I am: always tardy.
Posted at 8:06 PM
March 14, 2009 (Saturday)
Much more wave action. West winds. Heard there's big surf on the east shore, so that would explain the new energy, which was actually more like noise rather than organized groundswell or wrap.
Alas, it was very disappointing. You know when the wind blows west it screws everything. The waves would form up and peak but would simply spill over and die, just trail off into the flats and dissipate. It was bleh.
So bought a new O'neill short sleeve wetsuit top. On sale at T&C (25% off). Didn't use it today, though, as it was sunny and didn't feel as cold as yesterday. And that's pretty much how it was until near the end of the session when I started to shiver from too much sitting and waiting and idling.
Posted at 9:43 PM
Yesterday was worse than the previous day. Moderate west winds were destroying it. And it was f-f-f-freezing. Day before was light north with super clean conditions and near-perfect form but micro.
That Rip Curl vest I bought sucks, big time. I gave it away. Good thing I paid 40% off, otherwise I'd be supremely bummed. Gonna look around today for something better.
Posted at 9:56 AM
March 7, 2009 (Saturday)
Finally caved and bought a neoprene vest. This is truly significant because I haven't owned or used a top or suit in over 10 years. What? Yep.
Why? Just don't like them because they don't fit me well, and I always get rash/chafing. I think the problem was sizing--always bought too small. We'll see with this one. It's a Rip Curl vest.
Have been skipping sessions due to the poor surf/weather conditions. Day before previous, walked to the beach with my board, watched, then turned back and went home, which is highly unusual. I never do that. But just standing there gave me shivers. My friend was out trying his best, and he was groveling and catching waist-high, crap-ass mush. Basically all he was doing was hopping just to stay with it. Add to that the cloudy skies, 25-30 mph winds, and doubtless cold water, and the decision was easy.
Yesterday same thing. Today, will make an attempt with my new vest.
Posted at 10:30 AM
March 2, 2009 (Monday)
Chilly and blown. Caught a handful of waves that allowed for a turn or two. My friend was wearing his new Matuse Chapter 1 (2MM) long-sleeve top and said it was so warm as to be almost uncomfortable.
Posted at 6:46 PM
March 1, 2009 (Sunday)
It's frickin' ice cold. Slightly bigger and more wave action due to the stronger wind.
Posted at 11:52 AM