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June 11, 2009 (Thursday)
Post-session
Finally got in the water. Missed the previous two days.
Not a good one for the kookster. Did Ms and it was dismal. Paddled over to Bs+Ms and caught one good left. Then went to the regular spot. It was empty, so something had to be wrong. The tide was ruining the form and it was abysmally inconsistent. But it had push. Power.
I took off on a set-wave and barely made the drop. Then there was all chop and turbulence, and I bled off so much speed that I stalled. It re-formed, and I turned around to look and watched as the thick wall heaved, and the lip pitched out and exploded on me. The wave picked up my board and me and blew us away like leaves in a gale.
My new board hit my leg and gashed it, the rail had a two-inch ding, and the bottom had a big pressure. The board had gone between my legs, and I'm lucky I didn't get hurt from the fins.
Posted at 7:57 PM