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June 17, 2009 (Wednesday)

Post-session

First real surfing for me since Saturday. No go-out yesterday because I had to work (12-hour shift---fun). Monday was a waste at my usual spot since it can't handle large swell.

It's definitely smaller now. In fact, it's surprisingly soft. But I had some semi-fun ones; and I'm tired from all the paddling, and that's a good feeling.

Posted at 8:06 PM