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June 30, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Super fun. Consistent 1-3 with light trades. Not crowded.
I scored, big time. Had it to myself for about two hours. Then three others came out for the last hour.
Initially there was one guy when I paddled out. It was inconsistent, and I was struggling because I felt stiff and awkward. My arthritis (hip, knee, elbow) was bothering me; but not more than usual, just that I was letting it distract me. I fell on my first wave.
Then the sets started to improve: It got bigger, solid 3s, with good frequency. It really seemed like the swell was building. The other guy went in, and that's when I started to find my rythym. I loosened up and relaxed and started surfing better. But the sets were splitting between the back-bowl and the wide-bowl, and it was difficult to know where to sit.
Soon, thankfully, it settled down and began breaking in the same place, and that's when my session truly began. From then on, I was catching wave after wave and some were taking me all the way to Bs+Ms, which I'd estimate to be at least 150 yards away. I had some awesome rides, grinning and laughing as I paddled back out.
When the other guys joined, they sat deep and I had my peak alone. I continued snagging waves non-stop, and I continued going all the way to the next break (long, long rides).
Eventually the sets did back off and there were some intervening lulls. My shoulders were tired. Time to head in. This was my best session in a while. I'm surfed out.
Posted at 5:23 PM