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July 24, 2009 (Friday)
Post-session
Couldn't surf Wednesday/Thursday. Heard Thursday was "epic." It's interesting because I've asked many people, and all of them said the same thing about the size that day: 3-5 with 6-foot "bombs." Apparently, my regular spot was near-perfect with big sets that were lined up and very ride-able (not closing). So I missed out.
Today, everyone I saw made pretty much the same remark: "Oh, it's so small--it really dropped." One guy said, "Ew, it's so small, yeah?" Uh, yeah? Small? This awesome summer has spoiled us all.
Needless to say, there's still some waves to be had, and I had some fun ones once I got settled in and relaxed and warmed up. I was struggling, though, early on. But I eventually had some frickin' good rides.
Did M's. The deep, back-bowl was barreling top to bottom. But most were running away and sectioning, so you rarely could you make it beyond the first bowl. That's why I sat at the wider peak and waited for the ones that swung out. It didn't take long before everyone went in, and I had it to my lonesome. No stress, my friends, just the way I like it.
So Sunday's bringing yet another swell? That's the word.
Posted at 7:19 PM