July 28, 2009 (Tuesday)
Did M's. As I paddled out, there were some decent sets. Several people were sitting on the inside surfing the back-bowl. I waited at the main peak and got skunked. It wasn't until I was ready to give up and call it a day (after about an hour and a half) that I got my best rides. Then the biggest waves of the session came in, which surprised me because there were some big ones. By then, though, the form and conditions had deteriorated significantly, and my interest faded quickly like the Shangri-La sets.
Posted at 8:21 PM