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August 9, 2009 (Sunday)

Post-session

Bigger. Interestingly, it had more east in it. Is that because of Felicia?

The direction definitely is different. How the heck do I know? I don't, for sure, of course. It's just supposition. But I can say I've been surfing pretty much the same spot every day for a few weeks, and all that time it's been breaking in the same way. That is, it was coming in west-y and hitting the back-bowl in an A-frame. The previous several days, in particular, were almost identical in that regard.

But today, no: distinct contrast. But then I'm chronically prone to exaggeration, misperception, misjudgment, and a notoriously faulty memory.

Posted at 11:08 PM