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August 10, 2009 (Monday)
Post-session
When we pulled up, it appeared quite good. Clean with nice form. But M's was crowded (five people). WTF? And it looked smaller.
I could see that my friend was out there. So my other friend and I headed out. One of the regulars paddled over from the usual spot, and so it was four of us. We took over and the other four went in.
Fun initially. And then it got very inconsistent. Got windier too. Form got weaker.
It was boring. And a big change from all these days when I've been surfing the place alone. I thought yesterday was east but today was without doubt west-y.
Interestingly, the Hawaii surf-forecasting guru himself came out afterward and joined us. He said there was the energy from Felicia (so that was east) and some Tasman Sea energy (so that was west) and both were coming in. Ah, okay, but I wondered why one was so pronounced one day and the other the next. He just nodded in the affirmative and repeated that both swell directions were conflicting. We had a nice talk.
Posted at 5:29 PM