« August 2009 | Extempore | October 2009 »
September 30, 2009 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Regular again. Better form/conditions. More wave action. Still crappy. Empty.
Posted at 7:11 PM
September 29, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
So it doesn't surprise me that "Hawaii surfers unfazed by warnings" of possible tsunami. Various reports put the ETA of the possible first wave at 1:11-1:18 pm.
Friend and I were out at Regular by 1:30 after the warning was cancelled. We were surprised at how stormy it looked. Bigger and very windy and choppy. Can't say I could tell any difference from a normal day, which is almost always windy and sloppy anyway. And of course the high tide didn't help.
But the water seemed to be heaving quite a bit more than normally. It was obviously messed up from the wind, no doubt, but it also seemed to be chaotic and turbulent, going every which way and not only in relation to the wind. It was like the water in a bucket that was shaken vigorously to make the waves bounce off the sides and run in to each other from every direction. Not too good for surfing. Great if you want to get seasick.
Posted at 7:46 PM
September 27, 2009 (Sunday)
Post-session
More wave action but small and windy/sloppy.
Posted at 9:44 AM
September 26, 2009 (Saturday)
Post-session
Wow, where have I been? The week just flew by, and I know not where it hath gone.
Been doing the routine: Work, surf, work, surf, work...the job seems all-consuming at times. Surf has been, well, kinda crappy but doable. For the most part empty but yesterday was packed.
I'm staying close to home. Don't plan on venturing elsewhere in the near future.
Posted at 11:06 AM
September 19, 2009 (Saturday)
Post-session
A-framer again. My friend wanted more of the same. I thought it looked worse. He made the call. It kinda sucked, particularly the rights. Disappointing session for me.
Posted at 9:49 PM
September 18, 2009 (Friday)
Post-session
My second first this week. The first time I've done the A-framer in a great while. Definitely my old favorite place, my new one being M's.
Didn't think it looked good, especially the rights, but my friend made the call. Surprisingly, the rights were fun. Immediately began snagging some fun ones. Challenging takeoff. Bowl-y sections. Ah, yes, it felt comfortable and familiar.
Unfortunately, it didn't last. The rising tide seemed to lessen the edge, the sets became more infrequent, and the form deteriorated. All in all, though, a satisfying session.
Posted at 7:12 PM
September 17, 2009 (Thursday)
Post-session
Well, really went outside of the comfort zone. Did the Right-hander with a friend. Can't remember the last time I went to the Right-hander, but it was a long, long--long--time ago. If it wasn't for my friend's prompting, surely would've gone elsewhere.
There were three guys out, but they were clueless, and we were catching whatever we wanted. There were some nice ones coming in with a good angle. Fun bowl-ages. Feeling the reef nicely. Lined up. Rippable.
Didn't have a leash, and swam twice right away. Not a good start. But once I relaxed and stopped being paranoid about losing my board, I did much better and got some good rides. I was really surprised by the size because I expected it to be much smaller.
Unfortunately, and understandably, it didn't last. The sets became infrequent, the conditions/form deteriorated, and the skill-less, aggressive idiots so typical of this spot (and the reason I stopped surfing here on a regular basis) started appearing like noxious vermin.
But that was quite alright. We were satisfied. We had scored.
Posted at 6:57 PM
September 16, 2009 (Wednesday)
Post-session
BM's with a friend. Intolerably boring so headed to Regular via M's but didn't dawdle at my favorite spot. Regular was very weak, slope-y, and mushy, but was actually kinda fun because it was relaxing and stress-free due to the emptiness (except for a few regulars). The detour actually salvaged the session because it added some welcomed variety to an otherwise dull time.
Posted at 7:48 PM
September 15, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Half the size. I thought we were supposed to have light winds all week? Moderate trades, instead. Don't get me wrong, I'd much rather it blown out and messy; was just wondering what happened.
BM's, M's, then Regular. Weak and slope-y. Sucked. Empty. No stress but also not much fun. Actually, I left satisfied as the handful of good ones I got were enough to sate.
Posted at 7:20 PM
September 14, 2009 (Monday)
Post-session
Seems slightly bigger. Looked really good from the cars before we paddled out. Friends getting out of the water said it was fun: consistent, lined up, and empty. And it was good at first, for about 15 minutes. Then it turned to crap. Very disappointing. Heard yesterday evening was going off.
Posted at 10:27 PM
September 13, 2009 (Sunday)
Post-session
BM's and then M's alone. Definitely bigger but sloppy/choppy. Surprisingly un-crowded.
Posted at 12:02 PM
September 12, 2009 (Saturday)
Post-session
Bigger. West-y. Did the circuit again. Ho-hum.
Posted at 10:21 PM
September 11, 2009 (Friday)
Post-session
Bigger. M's, BM's, back to M's, Regular. BM's was best, but it was boring and unchallenging. Crowded.
Posted at 5:41 PM
September 10, 2009 (Thursday)
Post-session
BM's alone. Some surprising lefts immediately that were lined up and ride-able all the way to the inside. Then nothing. Headed to M's. Some size--definitely bigger than yesterday--but just a shoulder with no wall. Snagged a handful then called it.
Posted at 8:27 PM
September 9, 2009 (Wednesday)
Post-session
With a friend, started at BM's, then M's, then finished at Regular. M's was the best place, but that's not saying much at all. Very weak, slope-y mush.
Posted at 8:56 PM
September 8, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Bigger. M's alone then Regular to finish. Dismal initially with weak and slope-y mush, then a surge with several fun ones, then back to crappy gutless slop. Windy.
Posted at 7:45 PM
September 7, 2009 (Monday)
Post-session
BM's alone then a friend joined. Slightly bigger but still small. Windy and sloppy but doable.
Posted at 2:12 PM
September 6, 2009 (Sunday)
Post-session
Smaller and junk. Windy. Not crowded.
Posted at 1:08 PM
September 5, 2009 (Saturday)
Post-session
BM's with a friend. Sorta fun. Good angle/direction but surprisingly weak. Got better near the end of the session, and that's when two friends and two other guys joined.
Posted at 9:47 PM
September 4, 2009 (Friday)
Post-session
Smaller and sloppier. More fun than yesterday, though. Kinda crowded for such a crappy day. Sat alone on the inside end-corner so I didn't have to deal with all the kooks.
Posted at 8:09 PM
September 3, 2009 (Thursday)
Post-session
Smaller. Apparently it was good earlier before the rising tide ruined it. For me, it was extremely weak/gutless, slope-y, and mushy. My best wave was my last.
Posted at 8:11 PM
September 2, 2009 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Bigger. Perhaps twice the size of yesterday but still dismal.
"Riding a Surfboard Made By An Old Apple Designer."
Posted at 4:39 PM
September 1, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Had to do a split shift for work, so went out between shifts just before noon. Knew it was gonna be small, but it was super tiny. Had it not been for the wind, it would've been near-flat. Stayed out 15 minutes. You get the idea.
Posted at 8:11 PM