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September 17, 2009 (Thursday)
Post-session
Well, really went outside of the comfort zone. Did the Right-hander with a friend. Can't remember the last time I went to the Right-hander, but it was a long, long--long--time ago. If it wasn't for my friend's prompting, surely would've gone elsewhere.
There were three guys out, but they were clueless, and we were catching whatever we wanted. There were some nice ones coming in with a good angle. Fun bowl-ages. Feeling the reef nicely. Lined up. Rippable.
Didn't have a leash, and swam twice right away. Not a good start. But once I relaxed and stopped being paranoid about losing my board, I did much better and got some good rides. I was really surprised by the size because I expected it to be much smaller.
Unfortunately, and understandably, it didn't last. The sets became infrequent, the conditions/form deteriorated, and the skill-less, aggressive idiots so typical of this spot (and the reason I stopped surfing here on a regular basis) started appearing like noxious vermin.
But that was quite alright. We were satisfied. We had scored.
Posted at 6:57 PM