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September 29, 2009 (Tuesday)

Post-session

So it doesn't surprise me that "Hawaii surfers unfazed by warnings" of possible tsunami. Various reports put the ETA of the possible first wave at 1:11-1:18 pm.

Friend and I were out at Regular by 1:30 after the warning was cancelled. We were surprised at how stormy it looked. Bigger and very windy and choppy. Can't say I could tell any difference from a normal day, which is almost always windy and sloppy anyway. And of course the high tide didn't help.

But the water seemed to be heaving quite a bit more than normally. It was obviously messed up from the wind, no doubt, but it also seemed to be chaotic and turbulent, going every which way and not only in relation to the wind. It was like the water in a bucket that was shaken vigorously to make the waves bounce off the sides and run in to each other from every direction. Not too good for surfing. Great if you want to get seasick.

Posted at 7:46 PM