October 30, 2009 (Friday)
Highly disappointing. This will fix it: Big Top Cupcake. Yeah!
Posted at 8:37 PM
October 29, 2009 (Thursday)
A-framer goodness. F-yeah!
Posted at 8:21 PM
October 25, 2009 (Sunday)
Haven't been posting because it's been pretty dismal. Had some fun tiny ones today at the A-framer. Just a friend and me. How nice to have it to ourselves for a change--it's been a zoo of late.
Gonna take a break tomorrow. Have all-day business meetings tomorrow and Tuesday, but will probably do an early-morning session on Tuesday.
Posted at 10:34 PM
October 21, 2009 (Wednesday)
Surprising fun. Had a blast. Started at M's. Gong. Mosied over to BM's and found rippable, doubled-up mush that was swinging wide and breaking in deeper water all the way to the far inside. Had it all to myself and was loving it.
Posted at 7:55 PM
October 20, 2009 (Tuesday)
Another bad one. Started at Regular, moved to M's, then went back to Regular. Very disappointing.
Posted at 8:12 PM
October 19, 2009 (Monday)
Smaller. Awful. Terrible. Caught less than a handful in 1.5 hours. Sucked.
Posted at 8:49 PM
October 18, 2009 (Sunday)
Did Regular. Still some remnants, then long lulls. Final ride was awesome and had me grinning on the way in and feeling great as I walked on the beach. Totally made my day.
Posted at 11:40 PM
October 17, 2009 (Saturday)
What a difference: yesterday small, today big. Windy and choppy with some challenging bombs.
Posted at 9:26 PM
October 16, 2009 (Friday)
A-framer with a friend. Small and clean. Boring.
Posted at 8:48 PM
October 15, 2009 (Thursday)
Small. Everywhere crowded so did BM's, which sucked. Moved to M's then Regular then called it a day. Crappy.
Posted at 8:01 PM
October 14, 2009 (Wednesday)
Seems like new energy. Some of the sets when we got out initially were surprising (head-high). Then it backed off. Good conditions/form but mostly kinda weak and mushy with long lulls. Not crowded. New board feeling good.
Posted at 6:57 PM
October 13, 2009 (Tuesday)
Regular with a friend. Empty then semi-crowded (Mostly kooks).
Started on the inside, end-corner and groveled big time. Moved to the outside and had a blast. Caught many rippable chest-high walls that went all the way to the far inside. New board working great (very fast and nimble).
Posted at 8:28 PM
October 12, 2009 (Monday)
BM's alone. Super small. Awful.
Posted at 2:21 PM
October 11, 2009 (Sunday)
Smaller. Did Regular. Dismal and dreary.
Posted at 11:11 PM
October 10, 2009 (Saturday)
BM's with a friend. Total crap. Moved to M's and whaddya know? Rippable fun: long, chest-high walls with wide-open faces. Uh-huh. New board working better.
Posted at 10:46 PM
October 9, 2009 (Friday)
A-framer. Just me and a friend. My first opportunity to get out at my usual time and a chance to snag it without a crowd. It was okay. Kinda boring but relaxing. At one time, seemed like it was building. But that fizzled. At least it wasn't crowded. New board feeling better.
Posted at 10:37 PM
October 8, 2009 (Thursday)
A-framer. Smaller. Just like yesterday: decent at first then very infrequent. Light winds makes for more people; the spot becomes more obvious and the crowd at adjacent places drives people over. Still awkward with my new board.
Posted at 7:51 PM
October 7, 2009 (Wednesday)
A-framer. Smaller. Okay at first then crappy. Struggling with my new board. More people than I'm used to at this spot.
Posted at 8:13 PM
October 6, 2009 (Tuesday)
Going off. Bigger. Smooth conditions/form (calm-light SW breeze).
The Right-hander was awesome looking. Barreling. Waves were spitting. The nicest i've seen it in some time.
Did M's and then finished at Regular. Caught some great ones. As soon as we got out, I garnered half a dozen over-head walls that lined up all the way to BM's. Super fun. Inconsistent but the crowd was minimal and we were catching whatever we wanted.
It was a beautiful day and the water was warm and we were roasting in the sun. Once we had our fill, we moved to Regular. It was really good. Big peaks with long, tapered walls that were feeling the reef. Crowded but mellow. Snagged a few then called it a day.
Posted at 8:40 PM
October 5, 2009 (Monday)
Slightly bigger. Did BM's and M's alone. Had an awful time. Was always out of position. The Regular looked nice, though, with good conditions/form but crowded.
Posted at 11:58 PM
October 4, 2009 (Sunday)
Did BM's with a friend. Started off miserably and was looking like a repeat of yesterday. Nothing going well and falling a lot. Then moved to Regular, and I had a blast. Super fun. Mellow crowd. Main bowl easy to read. Several really good rides. Happy-happy, joy-joy.
Posted at 11:16 PM
October 3, 2009 (Saturday)
Smaller but still some leftover sneakers. Did BM's. Had a terrible time and was kooking heavily.
Posted at 8:02 PM
October 2, 2009 (Friday)
Whoa. Some bombs coming in. When we first got out, some angry 5s in the middle. Windy/choppy, thick, doubly, wedge-y peaks. Challenging.
Posted at 8:12 PM
October 1, 2009 (Thursday)
New energy, west-y. Definitely bigger but windy and very choppy.
Posted at 8:05 PM