November 28, 2009 (Saturday)
When I pulled up, one of the regulars said that just earlier there had been some big sets on the outside. Watching now it seemed a replay of yesterday, perhaps even smaller, so I accepted his comments with skepticism.
I stood by the car for some time but didn't see anything impressive, grabbed my board and started walking, and behold, a west-y set rolled in and broke way outside of the lineup and continued un-ridden. Whoa, where did that come from? There really is something. I got excited.
It was so-so and not nearly as good as it had looked. Decent conditions and form but weak and no push. Initially it was empty, but it got crowded quickly, so eventually I moved to M's to finish. Overall boring session.
Heard it's supposed to be bigger tomorrow. Uh-huh, sure.
Posted at 11:11 PM
November 27, 2009 (Friday)
Bigger. Kinda crowded. Started at Regular. Very weak and sloppy. Too many irritating kooks. Moved to M's and caught several fun ones, which totally made my day. Went back to Regular for a last one in.
Posted at 10:17 PM
November 26, 2009 (Thursday)
Phew! Blown. Pure wind-slop. Had a few dribblers, but it was difficult to execute anything. One interesting note: It looked really cold, but the water was surprisingly tepid.
Posted at 7:28 PM
November 25, 2009 (Wednesday)
Slightly more fun but really more of the same, although it might be bigger. Windy and sloppy.
Posted at 8:05 PM
November 24, 2009 (Tuesday)
Fooled again. It looked good from the cars, and my friend and I were excited. Seemed like new energy pushing in from the west. But what we actually found was quite otherwise. It was absolutely dismal. Why are we always tricked even though we've been surfing this place every day for years?
Posted at 6:49 PM
November 23, 2009 (Monday)
Friend told me early morning was good with some "bombs," so you know I expected something nice when I pulled up. Instead, it looked small. Huh? It did look cleaner than yesterday, though. Oh, well.
Did BM's then moseyed to M's. Some fun ones at M's. Classic far-inside-bowl-action, which at that place means small, tricky, west-y a-frames. Fairly regular sets. Frustrating at the end trying to get a last one in (surprise!).
Posted at 11:57 PM
November 20, 2009 (Friday)
Really bad. Blown out and cold. Small. And it was crowded. WTF?
It's been windy and chilly, of late. Exactly the kind of weather that can put you under the weather. Speaking of getting sick...
So just how bad, really, is the H1N1 virus? It's supposed to cause a typical flu, right? Well, that's what I thought---until I talked to my friend today on the beach.
I was getting out of the water and he was standing on shore with his board ready to head out. Hadn't seen him in a while, and gosh, you've dropped some weight, huh? Yeah, I had the swine flu. What??? Yep. I was in the hospital for six days with a 105 fever.
Yikes. Said he can't recall four days of his hospitalization. Okay. Uh, that's unsettling.
Posted at 9:00 PM
November 18, 2009 (Wednesday)
It's been blowing like a rock star. Monday was probably the best, while yesterday takes the prize as the windiest (and I mean WINDY) and biggest. Today just plain sucked: less wind, less waves. Funny how that works.
Posted at 7:07 PM
November 13, 2009 (Friday)
BM's with a friend. Some fun ones. Had one killer right.
Good enough for the two of us...un-crowded, no stress--just the way I like it. Uh-huh.
Posted at 9:46 PM
November 12, 2009 (Thursday)
It's bigger. Some fun ones. Light winds, smooth conditions initially; then trades, then back to light onshore.
Posted at 7:16 PM
November 10, 2009 (Tuesday)
Whaddup? Looked good from the cars, but it sucked.
Aw, can't be more positive? After all, it was a beautiful, sunny day, and it was nice to be in the water. Should be grateful that you have the time and ability to go surfing.
Nah, it mostly just sucked. And the water was "cold" (insert laugh track, here).
Posted at 8:29 PM
November 9, 2009 (Monday)
Hi, all. So there's been stuff, but it's kinda boring. Windy/sloppy and weak. Kinda bleh. Though it is nice to have waves close to home this time of year.
Posted at 11:03 AM
November 5, 2009 (Thursday)
New energy started showing yesterday with a definite and palpable bump-up. Today it looked quite good.
But it wasn't. Moderate to strong trades and kinda puffy/weak without push. Head-high or larger but crappy. Though my last ride was funtastic.
Posted at 7:11 PM
November 2, 2009 (Monday)
Solo at BM's. Small and inconsistent but actually kinda fun.
Posted at 11:48 PM