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December 1, 2009 (Tuesday)
Post-session
It's been dismal the previous few days. But today was fun at Regular.
Initially quite empty, and I had my usual peak to myself and scored a few good ones from the get-go. Light wind and kinda lined up and rippable but small. Then it got crowded with regulars. A tough crowd: experienced/knowledgeable, wave-savvy veterans who have good positioning and strong paddling skills. Group of eight in a tight pack. Not an easy bunch. And on the periphery, a loose collection of boogers and longie/shortie kooks.
I kept shuttling between the outside and middle areas and was having a good ol' time. Lots of slash-able creases, folds, seams, and divots. For some odd reason, the walls were longish and even the tiniest, dribble-y mush was feeling the reef nicely.
Very surprising. Beautiful, sunny day. Great day off. The TV news weather report said "string of south swells" this week. Where?
Posted at 7:56 PM