December 3, 2009 (Thursday)
Wow! SUPER fun time at M's. Me and a friend then one guy joined. My friend paddled out just ahead and was going to BM's, and as I stood on the beach I saw some "big" sets at M's. I headed there and yelled to him to come over.
It was bumpy with a light to moderate onshore breeze that was making it messy and choppy. It took some time for us to get our bearings and for a decent set to come in, but once we dialed it we had a blast. The waves were coming as long, rolling, slope-y, west-y, v-shaped walls that were doubling over the reef. Worbly and heaving but oh-so rippable.
It took me a few rides to get loose and warmed up. Initially I was stiff and my hip was bothering me. But that didn't last. I was snagging small and medium-size in-betweeners all the way to the inside of BM's (that's more than a hundred yards). Long, long rides with five or six slashes/bashes. Was having a blast. Felt like summer--the surf, that is, not the water/air temp.
I was loving it. No crowd and pretty much wave after wave.
My friend had to go in early. I stayed with the other guy. Actually he's my friend too. Soon thereafter he said he got stung by something with tentacles. I asked if it was really sore. He said no, but he's kind of a macho guy, so I wasn't sure if he just didn't want to admit. I told him if the pain was just irritating, like an itch, then it was probably a man-o-war; but if the pain was intense, like it was on fire, then it was probably a box jellyfish. He had the tentacles draped over his upper arm to his forearm. Yuck. Ouch.
So we kept surfing for another ten minutes, and he caught a wave. Next thing I know he's telling me he's going in before his "...arm stops working." Box jellyfish. No doubt. I've had friends go to the ER after getting stung by box. One had difficulty breathing after getting stung across the chest; another had a paralyzed arm. Nasty.
Tomorrow might be big. That's what I'm thinking because the swell wasn't supposed to hit until then, and we're already getting some significant size.
Posted at 7:58 PM