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December 4, 2009 (Friday)
Post-session
It's no exaggeration to say it's going off. Spots that respond well to a SW should be getting some nice stuff. The Regular and all places nearby were working.
Actually, the Regular is made up of three main peaks. The one farthest west was bombing. Extremely consistent and lined up. Crowded with many skilled shortboarders and longboarders tearing it up. I saw some big moves on some critical sections. Saw some cover-ups too. Overall impressive surfing action.
As for me, I went into self-exile again. Did M's while my friend hung on the lefts at BM's. I had fun, although initially it was soft and puffy and then improved. As the quality--the rideability--increased, so, too, did the crowd. In no time it was Kook City with knuckleheads and dumb-asses battling for every little scrap. I stayed on the inside and managed to keep scoring fun west-y bowls until I opted to call it a day.
Posted at 9:12 PM