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December 8, 2009 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Looked quite bad from the cars. The choices were dismal or more-dismal. While waiting for my friend, one of the regulars and I decided we'd go with the A-framer. Then when my friend arrived and we got to the beach, we changed our minds and opted for the Regular. My other friend stayed committed to the A.

Well, it didn't take long for me to realize I had made the wrong call. I paddled downcurrent to the A. My other friend was still there. Alone.

The tide was low and it was windy and choppy. But it was fun because it was interesting, and what made it so was the takeoff: one second of sheer exhilaration and intensity. But I was thankful for it. It was easy to blow it, and the consequences would be a bounce on the shallow and sharp/jagged reef. Good motivation to focus.

Posted at 7:31 PM