December 13, 2009 (Sunday)
Marathon Sunday. Road was closed at DH, so took the opportunity to ride my bike and perhaps score un-crowded surf. That's my MO every Marathon. Each of the previous several years has been good. This year was no exception.
The RH was going off: four guys, lined-up, barreling. It looked good everywhere. Definitely bigger, so the forecasted new swell is here?
Did a small reef break. It was consistent but a bit soft. Rights/lefts. Decent enough. A friend joined later just as I was heading in for work. Later, I heard that the nearby spot was the "best it's been in a few years."
Posted at 7:25 PM