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January 5, 2010 (Tuesday)

Post-session

Checked Regular with a friend. It looked the same as it's been, so he "persuaded" me (he's driving) to head to the Beach Park. It appeared similar. Perhaps more wave action. He wanted to go out, so...

Very low tide. I didn't use a leash. Early on I fell off on a dribbler, and the onshore wind and whitewater carried my board all the way in. I had to swim, crawl, and walk over/on the jagged reef. My board would've gone farther, but "luckily" (it's quotes day) it parked on a coral head. I sliced up my hands, legs, and feet. What a nice experience.

The waves were probably bigger than Regular and more rideable, but that's not saying much, believe me. It speaks more to the prevailing poor quality of the southern shore.

Posted at 8:37 PM