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February 23, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
What a difference a day... Super-frickin' good.
BM's with a friend. We had been hesitant and almost opted for the A-framer. It was crowded elsewhere, so of course we were relegated (by our own selves) to the hinterlands and periphery.
From the cars, it looked okay. I did notice that some of the rights seemed to be bowling and dumping. Lefts seemed doable.
My friend did the lefts and I went directly to the rights. What I found was the best BM's I've experienced that I can remember. Head-high to slightly overhead, wide-open, and lined-up walls going forever to the inside of the next reef. I could've gone in after half an hour. My first handful of rides had me grinning, and I was giddy with excitement.
It was one of those awesome times that makes you grateful to be a surfer. Beautiful, hot and sunny day with smooth conditions and un-crowded and fun surf with a friend.
Unfortunately, it didn't last. After the first hour, or so, it slowed and there were long lulls, which coincided with the bottoming tide. It started to pick up again when the tide started its upward swing. Then some young local rippers joined. By that time we were done.
One of the kids, a regular, who has the potential to go pro--his brother does the Japan longboard circuit--asked if it was good. I told him it was the best I've surfed it in a long time. He gave me a look of excitement that was half incredulous. I understood. Didn't matter. We scored.
Posted at 10:21 PM