March 31, 2010 (Wednesday)
Just like yesterday but windier (blowing very hard...40+?). Empty. Friend and me at Regular for some wind-driven fun on the far inside at high tide. Good times.
Posted at 7:03 PM
March 30, 2010 (Tuesday)
Lots of fun at Regular way on the inside, end-corner. Desolate due to the high wind. Just a few core (read: desperate) people. Leg feeling much better, normal, which means I'm back to simply having an arthritic hip.
(Happy B-day: Mr. P. You're getting up there in years, yes?)
Posted at 7:44 PM
March 29, 2010 (Monday)
Brief one at Regular before work. Very windy and empty. Classic east-y wind-slop on the inside, end-corner bowl. Leg better but still hurting.
Posted at 11:46 PM
March 28, 2010 (Sunday)
BM's alone. Rights were not bad and kinda fun. Boring eventually, though. Leg still sore but much better. Went to Regular to finish, and it was shockingly empty.
Posted at 11:20 PM
March 27, 2010 (Saturday)
Leg is slightly better but still sore. Can't really surf.
Went to M's then Regular to finish. Just sat on the inside to play on the tiny ones. And actually it was more painful to get to my feet on the small ones because to stand you have to stage yourself in a low crouch, whereas on bigger waves your board falls away and eases the transition to standing.
Funny how less-skilled surfers are quick to instinctively capitalize on and exploit any weaknesses or infirmities you might have and fill in the gaps in the pecking order. That's not to say i have a lot of ability; but rather, that those over whom I'd usually be lording it where taking from and stepping all over me. Law of nature--there's a beautiful elegance and poetic simplicity to it.
Posted at 11:41 PM
March 26, 2010 (Friday)
BM's was going off. Friend was impatient and left quickly for Regular. I stayed and enjoyed the solitude.
Had a difficult time with positioning and was always in the wrong place. Would catch one and then the sets would come, and as I was paddling back out would see the most awesome rights grind through and barrel all the way across.
So was just trying to get something nice. Anything. Was taking off on a potential winner when I ate it trying to stand and hurt my leg. My arthritic hip locked up and somehow my inner thigh muscle got strained. Afterward couldn't surf.
But I didn't give up right away. I tried my best and caught several following the injury, and actually got my best ride on a killer wave. For some reason my leg didn't hurt that much on that ride, but on all others the discomfort was too great, and I had to go in. Such a bummer.
On the way, went to Regular for a last one via M's. Saw a friend at M's who said he had just got slammed in the jaw by his board at Regular and decided to mellow out at M's. We commiserated as I told him what happened to me.
Posted at 11:27 PM
March 25, 2010 (Thursday)
Regular again. Windy and good. Junk at first for me on the outside; however, my friend said the inside was giving the "best waves in weeks." I persisted because I wanted to get something considerable. Snagged a big chunky slab and then moved in. Scored many in the middle and inside and then called it. Overall, fun but not completely satisfying.
Posted at 8:08 PM
March 24, 2010 (Wednesday)
Very disappointing. Had been anticipating getting in the water all morning while at work. Heard that it was about 2-3 and windy, which is just the way I like it.
When I got there, it looked good, especially BM's and M's. And you know I was hungry for M's after yesterday's denial. Lots excitement as my friend and I made our way to the beach.
First stop: BM's. It was messy and choppy and inconsistent. Quite boring. I didn't give it much of a chance and told my friend I was heading to M's, a short distance away. He followed and we both got some rides that were okay but not fully redeeming, although his first one was "really good." Boredom quickly set in again. On to Regular.
Initially, seemed like a continuation of the trend: blown/sloppy, small residual groundswell with some wind-swell/cross-chop mixed in. We tried to make the best of it. Then a surge of outside sets with nice overhead doubled-up bowls and decent push helped to ease the misery. The enjoyment meter registered a positive reading. That went on for about half an hour, and then the tedious wind-slop status quo was restored and we made our exit.
Posted at 7:12 PM
March 23, 2010 (Tuesday)
A-framer with two friends. I wanted so badly to do M's, but my cohorts opted for the A. One is goofy-footed, and he wanted to surf frontside. We just followed along.
I was bummed. It was good to practice going backside, but other than that it was crappy. Quite sure M's would've been much better. Anyway, tried to make the best of it, but can't say I had even one good ride. Came close, but that's not saying much for a two-hour session.
My other friend didn't last 15 minutes. He went over to the Right-hander then came back after about half an hour then headed in for work.
Sitting at home now I'm tired from all the paddling but feel unsatisfied. Unfulfilled.
Check out this vid of a guy on the North Shore in Hawaii (via Crave):
Posted at 5:59 PM
New southern energy, 4s with some 5s. Crowded. The TV weather forecast last night said there would be a new south swell on Wednesday.
Posted at 12:41 PM
March 22, 2010 (Monday)
It has dropped a lot. Much smaller. Not crowded. Did M's alone and had fun.
It was improving with the rising tide in frequency/size/form, and just before I came in there was one awesome set (as I paddled back out after a ride, unfortunately). After that one, a handful of guys from Regular made a beeline over.
Had to go to work and was bummed to go in. Wanted to stay at least another hour. Funny sidenote: Fragments of two broken boards stuck in sand along beach. Remnants of the weekend's festivities, no doubt.
Posted at 11:07 PM
March 21, 2010 (Sunday)
Two guys out. It didn't look bigger, but it was out of control. Strong rip and closing out. Didn't catch anything for the first half hour. Continuous paddling against the current to stay in position.
Tried to sit where I was yesterday, but the right would break for a bit and then meet the oncoming left from the next peak and close. Basically, not surf-able.
Most nearby spots looked smaller, especially the big-wave place that yesterday had 6+ rolling in. But the Regular was definitely getting more and stronger energy.
Awful session. Extremely disappointing.
About yesterday: "South swell keeps lifeguards busy." ("Wave faces are in the 6- to 10-foot range," but I'd say the max is closer to at least 15.)
Posted at 11:52 PM
March 20, 2010 (Saturday)
So first thing this morning, I hear there's a strong south swell pushing in. A friend surfed Bowls early and said it was "going off" and Rock Piles closing out (due more to direction than size). Didn't know what to expect, but did anticipate some head-high at least.
Go to the beach at my regular day-off time and am flabbergasted. It's big. Wow, yesterday was so-o small. Can't believe the drastic change. I mean, it looks out-of-control big.
My friend and I are bummed. It appears to be one of those days where the several spots we frequent are undoable. It's without doubt the biggest southern swell of the year, so far.
Several of the regulars are watching from the cars. Most had been out earlier. One got his epoxy longboard snapped in half. All say it had been even bigger in the morning. There are a handful of people out, but no one is catching anything. Everyone who attempts a takeoff eats it on the drop.
There are huge lines drawing all the way across, and it's consistent. One nearby big-wave break has one guy. It's gotta be at least 4-5 with 6s. Perhaps bigger. He finally takes off on a left and makes the drop but gets axed by the lip at the bottom and gets pummeled. After that he goes in. Yeah, so it's big.
But looks can be deceiving, don't you know. We went out to Regular, and I actually had fun. The current wasn't nearly as bad as would be normal for such a day. The biggest sets were closing but weren't too punishing. I stayed in the middle and snagged several in-betweeners (just being able to catch anything made me happy). But the rip current was significant after a big set or in certain places. For instance, after every ride I somehow ended up at M's, which is way the heck away. I know I didn't actually travel that distance on the wave, so my movement must've been mostly from the current after I kicked out.
Eventually, there were about 15 guys out at the middle, outside peak. Even I ventured to the outside for a brief time. Stayed long enough to get blasted by a set. On one, I ducked and got twirled and rag-dolled and somersaulted about three times but was able to hold on to my board. Couldn't catch a set-wave because they were just too thick to paddle into with my 5' 10". In fact, no one really was getting any of the biggest waves because if the wave didn't close out it was breaking so fast that if you made the drop you would get chewed up by the lip if you didn't straighten out. I did get a few smaller in-betweeners on the outside. After that I was satisfied.
Summary: Surprising fun on a day that initially promised to be all paddling and not much wave riding. Some say the swell peaks tomorrow. It's going to be bigger?
Posted at 8:09 PM
March 19, 2010 (Friday)
With a friend at BM's then Regular. Small and blown. It was freezing. Strong wind with a touch of north chill and cold water. Lots of sitting and idle time made for much displeasure.
Posted at 10:37 PM
March 18, 2010 (Thursday)
Another bad one. Small with agonizing lulls. BM's alone to start then ended at Regular.
Posted at 7:51 PM
March 17, 2010 (Wednesday)
Dismalness continues. A-framer with a friend. Much bigger than it looked from the cars, but weird angle and shifty/choppy/chunky from the west winds. Went out leashless. Takeoffs were challenging, and I didn't want to lose my board because the direction and wind would definitely push it toward the Right-hander and over the shallow reef shelf on the inside.
The takeoff was difficult because it was just a bowl-y peak that would fold over onto the reef with no wall and barely a shoulder, which meant to catch it you'd have to paddle and stand late right at the apex where the energy was focused. Had one left and was shocked to make it to the bottom and was so happy I didn't fall. Basically, it was classic A-framer: split second of sheer thrill followed by complete letdown.
Cluster of sets and then lulls. So headed over to the Right-hander to where my friend had already escaped. Caught a few then went in. Overall, better than expected but funky angle.
When we got out we were watching from the cars, and Regular looked really good. How'd that happen? Earlier it looked awful. Guess we made the wrong call.
Posted at 8:03 PM
March 16, 2010 (Tuesday)
Very small. Lighter wind made for better conditions/form and a circus-like atmosphere. Crowded, yes, but many, many beginners and the clueless.
Example: I'm driving down the wall on a small wave that's lined up pretty well--probably my best one up to that point--and two girls on longboards farther down start paddling in my way. One gets off her board and pushes her friend (an obvious newbie) in front of me. So I straighten out and watch the tragicomedy unfold as the riderless board gets picked up by the whitewater and squirts free and lands squarely on the head of the belly-boarding apprentice. A loud, hollow thumping sound and a stifled scream followed.
Right after that I told me friend what happened and paddled over to M's. Had to escape. Had. To.
Posted at 8:24 PM
March 15, 2010 (Monday)
Smallest in a while. East-angled wind-slop.
Posted at 11:35 PM
March 14, 2010 (Sunday)
BM's. Groveling. Really bad. Caught two then headed to Regular. Caught two then called it. Wanted to stay only half an hour, but ended up suffering for 1.5 hours because couldn't snag a decent last one. Awful awful, awful.
Some kooks on longboards were irksome to no end. Just gotta say it: You punks should frickin' go elsewhere. IDIOTS!!!
Posted at 10:02 PM
March 13, 2010 (Saturday)
BM's alone. Finally something decent. Got several fun ones, both rights and lefts. Felt pretty good. Over to Regular to finish. It looked okay everywhere. Very satisfied and pleased given the paucity of ride-able stuff of late.
Posted at 11:41 PM
March 12, 2010 (Friday)
BM's with a friend. Very windy, high tide. Awful. Finish at Regular.
Posted at 11:38 PM
March 11, 2010 (Thursday)
Yet again Regular with a friend (we simply don't give up). Supposed to be bigger but looked the same. Total crap. Wind blowing hard. Eyes took a punishing and were stinging.
This morning didn't take my Naproxen for my arthritis. Would it make a difference? Didn't think about it all day at work. Got in the water and the pain felt, well, more raw. Definite negative effect.
Posted at 8:09 PM
March 10, 2010 (Wednesday)
Again regular with a friend. Still very windy. Surprisingly, looked pretty good from the cars. Actually, worse than yesterday. Unbelievably bad.
Posted at 7:48 PM
March 9, 2010 (Tuesday)
Regular with a friend. Super windy. Struggled to get a last one. Better rides than yesterday but still atrocious.
Posted at 10:32 PM
March 8, 2010 (Monday)
Really bad. BM's alone. Dismal. Over to Regular to finish. Stayed out half an hour max.
Posted at 5:15 PM
From a reliable source: Future Fins will be coming out with a new line called FlexTech in May. Flex is in middle of fin instead of at tip.
Update: Apparently this is old news.
Posted at 10:32 AM
March 7, 2010 (Sunday)
BM's alone. Small but doable. Still windy and gusty but with slack periods.
Posted at 10:01 PM
March 6, 2010 (Saturday)
M's alone. Smaller and still windy but some ride-able ones to be had. Half an hour then done.
Posted at 11:19 PM
March 5, 2010 (Friday)
With a friend at M's then BM's. Bigger but weak and sloppy. Still windy.
The Resin8 rep gave my friend a new board to replace the one that cracked. Told him it was a manufacturing defect.
Posted at 11:36 PM
March 4, 2010 (Thursday)
Regular. About the same. Continuing the trend of strong winds and emptiness. Half an hour was enough. Surprisingly, the Right-hander looked good with the east-bowl working.
Posted at 7:49 PM
March 3, 2010 (Wednesday)
Regular with a friend. Windy and sloppy. Perhaps bigger. Definitely better form because more lined up. Empty but for a few regulars. Better? Can't quite say. Friend discovered a crack in his new Resin8 board. He was bummed.
Posted at 7:23 PM
March 2, 2010 (Tuesday)
Regular with a friend. Empty and desolate (just the way I like it). Wind blowing hard, which was probably the cause of the slightly bigger size. Did have better rides than anything yesterday. Of course, that's not saying much and speaks more to yesterday's dismal-ness.
Posted at 10:18 PM
March 1, 2010 (Monday)
Gale-force-like winds. Chilly. Brrr. Half hour, one decent wave.
Posted at 11:58 PM
No session yesterday. It was windy/chilly and small. I checked it, but decided to return home to relax and watch the end of the hockey game before work.
I was riveted. What an awesome competition between two teams of superb athletes. Aggressive, non-stop athleticism. I think that pretty much sums up the sport. Add the passion and national pride, and what you had was one heck of a match.
Posted at 9:24 AM
This morning's TV news: "...strong trade weather all week." Yes! All the kooks will blow away. I know some of you understand exactly what I'm talking about. Many people will not be surfing due to the winds. It's gonna be empty, especially at my usual places, which are notoriously windy anyway.
Posted at 9:17 AM