March 23, 2010 (Tuesday)
A-framer with two friends. I wanted so badly to do M's, but my cohorts opted for the A. One is goofy-footed, and he wanted to surf frontside. We just followed along.
I was bummed. It was good to practice going backside, but other than that it was crappy. Quite sure M's would've been much better. Anyway, tried to make the best of it, but can't say I had even one good ride. Came close, but that's not saying much for a two-hour session.
My other friend didn't last 15 minutes. He went over to the Right-hander then came back after about half an hour then headed in for work.
Sitting at home now I'm tired from all the paddling but feel unsatisfied. Unfulfilled.
Check out this vid of a guy on the North Shore in Hawaii (via Crave):
Posted at 5:59 PM