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April 30, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Friend was out alone at M's, and it looked fun. As I was walking on the beach, he hurriedly came in. Went out and had it to myself, and it was okay at first. Then the sets died, and I continually paddled to battle the wind and current. I wasn't feeling well. I was tired, and my shoulders were sore, too, and I think those were symptoms. Went to BM's to get a last one.
Posted at 11:29 PM
April 29, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
Was planning to do Regular, but when I got to the beach a steady arrival of kooks and various other types of noxious vermin forced me to modify and head to M's. Expected total crap, and initially it was quite bad. Just when I was considering surrendering and moving to BM's, I started to get some fun ones. Needless to say, I was very surprised and pleased. Eventually my friend moved over from Regular to join. We were both getting good rides. My last one was particularly enjoyable and gratifying (because it's always best to end on a positive).
Posted at 5:22 PM
April 28, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
I started at M's, my friend opted for Regular. Tried to make the best of it, but it was small, and the tide was creating slop. Moved to Regular. Friend said it was good, but it quickly deteriorated with the rising tide. It got really bad, and I couldn't even get a last one in. By the time I did, my eyes were stinging from the wind blast, and I was tired from paddling against the rip.
Posted at 7:53 PM
April 27, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Pretty awesome but not epic or anything. Did M's with a friend.
We had a difficult time deciding. A-framer? M's? My friend said Regular but then went to M's; I started at Regular but quickly changed when I saw my friend at M's.
The high tide and strong trades made it sloppy/choppy but we scored some good ones. The rip was strong too. Had some long rides all the way to BM's. The smaller ones, though, had the best form and offered the nicest rides. Another fun day.
Posted at 7:06 PM
April 26, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Started at M's, went to BM's, finished at Regular. Some bombs at BM's. High tide was ruining it (lots of surface chop). Regular was the best, although that's not saying much.
Posted at 11:51 PM
April 25, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
M's alone. Bigger. Difficult to paddle into. Jammed my arthritic elbow when I ate it and fell into my board. Pretty sore. Have a feeling it'll be bothering me for several days. Painful when I paddle.
Posted at 11:38 PM
April 24, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Joined two friends already at M's. Pretty much going off: over-head, lined-up, good angle, decent push. But I wasn't doing well and was really frustrated as I watched my friends snag everything. One moved over to Regular, and that's when I started scoring some super fun ones, the kind that remind you why you surf.
Posted at 11:55 PM
April 23, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Crazy. Did the entire circuit from A-framer to M's. That's a fairly far paddle. M's was going off, and I was shocked. Really fun and worth it, I guess, considering but would've been best to have gone there first. Funny how that works, huh? Should've, could've, yada.
Posted at 10:23 PM
April 22, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
With two friends. They headed to Regular, but I simply couldn't do another day at that bummer factory. Started to follow but quickly made a detour and deviated to M's.
The waits were long and always agonizing but there were some okay ones. Just like yesterday, however, I seemed always to be out of position--either too deep or too on the shoulder; too much on the inside or too far out. Consequently, moseyed over to BM's to finish.
Although there was a lot of dawdling and idle time between rides at both spots, I was very satisfied because I had both places to myself and there was no stress. Actually, I loved it. A big plus was the challenge of finding a wave and trying to be in the correct position, which made it all interesting and stimulating.
Watching from the car afterward, it definitely looked like the sets were getting bigger. The form, too, seemed more lined-up.
"Surfer gets ride of a lifetime, on shark's back."
Posted at 7:12 PM
April 21, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Awful time. Always in the wrong place and waves avoiding me. Didn't catch anything good while I watched as friends and regulars partook in the quirky shell game and scored some elusive nuggets while i could only watch with envy.
Posted at 7:10 PM
April 20, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Regular with a friend. Trend of windy/chilly continued; but it was cloudy, and the crowd was, therefore, noticeably absent. Actually took my wetsuit top because the previous days have been cold. Wouldn't you know? As soon as we left the beach, the clouds broke and it got sunny and the water was much warmer anyway.
People started arriving in packs. They all went to the middle, and I went into self-exile at my usual nook on the end-corner. Surprisingly, the kooks started migrating over to me. Argh! Escaped to M's then BM's then back to M's to finish. My best ride was my last on my final visit to M's, which salvaged an otherwise dismal session.
Posted at 8:13 PM
April 19, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Repeat--almost identical: small, windy/chilly (sunny), end-corner bowl, everyone in the middle, etc. Stubborn me refused to join the crowd, and for that I suffered.
Really wanted instead to go back home and nap before work. No matter what I plan or think beforehand, I always paddle out. Is that sad?
Posted at 11:28 PM
April 18, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Quick one before work. Windy and chilly. Absolutely not motivated. Almost didn't paddle out.
Did the end-corner for half an hour (which is all I could take). Really bad. Everyone else was in the middle where it was much better (operative word: everyone).
Posted at 11:53 PM
April 17, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
No session yesterday due to a 17-hour shift at work. That was fun.
With a friend at BM's. Windy and small. We finished at Regular.
Posted at 11:19 PM
April 15, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
Switched to the A-framer. Potential was high but just not enough waves. When it did come, it was really fun. Perfect angle, great conditions/form, decent push/power. Another guy and me then it got crowded as everyone from the Right-hander paddled over. Darn copy cats.
Posted at 5:37 PM
April 14, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Late afternoon. Very clean. From the car, could see BM's was going off. North wind was honing the form to perfection. Several others out.
Caught some rights but the tide was making it soft, and it wasn't nearly as good as it had appeared. Slowly the other guys disappeared, and I was alone. I switched to the lefts and struggled. Started kooking. The angle and swell direction for the lefts was excellent, but I was just blowing it.
Eventually, I just wanted to end the suffering and snag a last one. Lots of sitting and the brisk chilly breeze made for some shivering-cold moments of Zen.
Posted at 5:01 PM
April 13, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Clean. BM's with a friend. Small and doable. Some okay rights. Paddled to Regular to finish. Caught one and hightailed outta there because of my crowd phobia. Friend stayed and scored some good ones--watched from the car. Saw him do a mean backside vertical snap in the pocket as well as any pro, which blew me away. Very impressive.
Posted at 10:08 PM
April 12, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Small and clean. Seems like trades but there's a touch of north making it a bit chilly. Did the end-corner on the inside to avoid the crowd in the middle. It was too small and barely rideable, which made it interesting/challenging. Lots of longies.
Posted at 11:56 PM
April 11, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Whoa, tons of fun at Regular on the end-corner bowl far inside. Windy trades and a low-ish tide made for some rippable east-y bowl-ages that were doubling on the reef shelf and going all the way. Had it to my lonesome while everyone else sat and dawdled on the outside in the middle and right.
Very relaxing and leisurely session. No rush. Would pick and choose, ride it to the nub, then take my time paddling back out. One hour and completely satisfied.
Posted at 11:56 PM
April 10, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Started at M's solo. Whew, it was bad. One my first wave, tried a late takeoff and got caught in the whitewater and ate it. Not fun. Then went to BM's. Big improvement and fun. Very satisfied.
Posted at 10:19 PM
April 9, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Did almost the entire circuit (didn't do the A-framer---too far). Started at Regular. Some irritating local guys forced me to move to M's. Some juicy ones but long waits. Had several fun ones, though. Relaxed and bided my time. When a girl and guy separately joined, headed to BM's to finish. Waited patiently for a last one, a left.
Posted at 11:37 PM
April 8, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
Alone at M's. Bigger but not as good. Windy. Pretty junk but scored one super-fantastic ride.
Apparently, there is such a thing as a free lunch.
Posted at 7:03 PM
April 7, 2010 (Wednesday)
Post-session
Solo at M's again. Slightly bigger. Satisfying. Regular looked good with long lined-up walls, although it was mushy from the moderate E-SE winds. However, as usual crowd avoidance was my top priority (as opposed to wave quality).
Posted at 7:26 PM
April 6, 2010 (Tuesday)
Post-session
Solo goodness at M's. Fun. Brief, though, cuz had to work.
Posted at 7:51 PM
April 5, 2010 (Monday)
Post-session
Regular. Quite similar and even slightly bigger but not as much fun.
Posted at 11:18 PM
April 4, 2010 (Sunday)
Post-session
Light wind and less wave action (and crowded) but more fun. The worst ones were better than anything I got yesterday. Did Regular and sat far inside on the end-corner bowl, my refuge lo these many days. Satisfied.
Posted at 11:43 PM
April 3, 2010 (Saturday)
Post-session
Regular. Might be slightly bigger but still crappy. Basically just paddling around hunting for anything rideable. Very boring.
Posted at 10:19 PM
April 2, 2010 (Friday)
Post-session
Whaddya know? Less wind, less waves. "Crowded."
Wow, what a difference. Not as much wave action and missing all those seams, creases, and bumps. Crappy.
Posted at 9:43 PM
April 1, 2010 (Thursday)
Post-session
Just me and one of the regulars at Regular. Late afternoon (tardy due to work). Not as much fun as the previous few days, but still some doable ones. Didn't stay as long, either. Wind speed about the same (supposed to "drop" tonight).
Posted at 6:53 PM